Knocked up a little bracket to mount the electronic sensor for the SIP Speedo to pick up the front hub studs.
SIP speedo sensor mounting
- garry inglis
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Looks nice and neat love the grub screws to hold sensor
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- garry inglis
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Looks nice and neat love the grub screws to hold sensor
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Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
- coaster
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Very neat, I've just been fitting one myself, mine came with an all bracket and I used one of the slave cylinder bolts and it bolted up perfectly with a tiny bit of filling. Can I ask how you have set your speed sensor up as mine is seriously under reading and I suspect the ration is wrong but the manual isn't very helpful
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Hi Coaster, I know what you mean about the manual!coaster wrote:Very neat, I've just been fitting one myself, mine came with an all bracket and I used one of the slave cylinder bolts and it bolted up perfectly with a tiny bit of filling. Can I ask how you have set your speed sensor up as mine is seriously under reading and I suspect the ration is wrong but the manual isn't very helpful
Don't know if you have seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOaDZeyNR5E which is quite good but once again ignores setting up for the electronic sensor
The first thing to do is make sure you select "ext" for speedo sensor (adjustment menu 2 approx 1.20 in the video). Then set up the tyre circumference (this is what you use to "fine tune" your accuracy) in adjustment menu 3 (approx 1.48 in the video) and then the important bit that they ignore in the manual and the video. When you select "ext" as your input, the speedo ratio changes to input pulses per revolution. So in my case where I am picking up the hub studs I need to enter "4". I'm not sure what you are getting your pulses from (your description suggests an external hydraulic disc setup), but if you were using the bolts holding the disc to the hub on my disc brake that would be "5".
The active sensor has a blue light on the end that goes off/on as it gets a pulse (with 12v applied to the speedo) so if you rotate the wheel once you should be able to see how many pulses per revolution you have.
Hope this helps
- coaster
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Cheers M8, its an inboard disk with a hydraulic conversion, the cylinder is attached by 2 bolts and the Koso bracket fitted to one of the 2 bolts. I set it to align with the bolts like you did. I got to the 'ext' part but nothing in the manual referred to the pulses although I suspected that was what was the problem. I'll get to that directly.Minority wrote:Hi Coaster, I know what you mean about the manual!coaster wrote:Very neat, I've just been fitting one myself, mine came with an all bracket and I used one of the slave cylinder bolts and it bolted up perfectly with a tiny bit of filling. Can I ask how you have set your speed sensor up as mine is seriously under reading and I suspect the ration is wrong but the manual isn't very helpful
Don't know if you have seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOaDZeyNR5E which is quite good but once again ignores setting up for the electronic sensor
The first thing to do is make sure you select "ext" for speedo sensor (adjustment menu 2 approx 1.20 in the video). Then set up the tyre circumference (this is what you use to "fine tune" your accuracy) in adjustment menu 3 (approx 1.48 in the video) and then the important bit that they ignore in the manual and the video. When you select "ext" as your input, the speedo ratio changes to input pulses per revolution. So in my case where I am picking up the hub studs I need to enter "4". I'm not sure what you are getting your pulses from (your description suggests an external hydraulic disc setup), but if you were using the bolts holding the disc to the hub on my disc brake that would be "5".
The active sensor has a blue light on the end that goes off/on as it gets a pulse (with 12v applied to the speedo) so if you rotate the wheel once you should be able to see how many pulses per revolution you have.
Hope this helps
I have wired my rev counter feed to the input to the wassel unit and it seems to be working fine so far.
Colin
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Neat solution that.
You might want to look at moving the brake arm round a spline clockwise though, doesn't look like there's much pull on there.
"Our dilemma is that we hate change and love it at the same time; what we really want is for things to remain the same but get better."
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Thanks mate, already been pointed out and your quite correct, there's not much clearance at all when the the brakes fully applied!rosscla wrote: Neat solution that.
You might want to look at moving the brake arm round a spline clockwise though, doesn't look like there's much pull on there.
Another thing to add to the list of things to do