I have had a few problems with an exhaust stud coming loose in my TS1 over the last year or so. So, the last time I tightened it up, I went a bit too far ( in my typical 'ham-fisted approach to all things mechanical) and it went tight, bit tighter......looser! Oh Sh!t.
Oh well. It lasted a few hundred miles and even up the drag strip at Elvington (with a 16.5 sec quarter at 86mph, no less), but on the way back home, it got very noisy and eventually the exhaust fell off.
Well now it's time to repair it for the summer. I got myself some oversized exhaust studs from beedspeed (m7 one end and m8 the other) and I am bracing myself to do the job myself. The engine owes me thousands and I don't want to mess it up, as per....
I have removed the engine and stripped lots of stuff off it in preparation. I do have a barny-basic pilar drill and wondered if it was worth trying to get the engine vertical and horizontal on the bench to drill it with that, or will a hand drill be ok, just by trying to hold it nice and vertical? I don't want to take the barrel off, as it was assembled by JB tuning and I don't trust myself to put it back together properly, at the right toque and using the right gaskets / sealant etc. Nor do I want to wave goodbye to it for months and wait for some scooter shop to do it for me, only for the summer to come and go.
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Stripped exhaust stud. Help!
I don't want to keep up with modern traffic. I want to hoon past it, preferably on one wheel!
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jason frost
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Drill by hand, just don't go to deep 
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Grumpy225
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You're only going from 7 to 8mm. No need for a drill, just tap it out to the next size. Your biggest problem with be getting the stud straight and no swarf in the exhaust port.
Tape over the port with something heavy duty and sticky, you don't want it to pull off half way through.
Buy,borrow or rent a tap guide. This will help with you running the tap straight in the to cylinder.
Small turns, backing off every 1/4 or so. Clean frequently.
Tape over the port with something heavy duty and sticky, you don't want it to pull off half way through.
Buy,borrow or rent a tap guide. This will help with you running the tap straight in the to cylinder.
Small turns, backing off every 1/4 or so. Clean frequently.
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Adam_Winstone
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What type of exhaust? If it is not a stub type pipe you'll be a dab hand at doing this before long.
its a standard stud it will be m7 which is tapped trough a m6 hole , if its a metric m8 bolt the thread is normaly 1.25mm in pitch this means youwill have to drill the existing hole to 6.8mm but I would check with the supplier of the new stud what pitch it is http://www.shender4.com/metric_thread_chart.htm
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
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sean brady scooters
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i would just simply use a time sert to repair that tbh ...
Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698
It's a franspeed race.
What's a time cert?
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What's a time cert?
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I don't want to keep up with modern traffic. I want to hoon past it, preferably on one wheel!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8
like most Wurth products, not the cheapest, but quality !
like most Wurth products, not the cheapest, but quality !
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Speed Demon
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*TimeSert - like a helicoil but solid and much better
Get to SULK
as said before,just tap out care fully to m8,its a ally barrell,and the hole will now be 7mm as the existing threads will be stripped,start with a taper tap,and finish with a plug tap,if you redrill it 7mm,you risk making the hole bigger than 7mm,and the thread will be slack,thread should feel tight if you just retap.