It was the petseal alternative product sold by Beedspeed and others.
I rebuilt the scooter's engine, put it back in the frame, refilled the tank with the fuel that produced the crystals and it fired up OK. Odd though, innit?
Petrol tank sealer - reccomendations
- Doom Patrol
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Fair comment. You can't argue with that.stokky wrote:answer for Doom patrol.
New tank, bare metal on inside.
Sooner or later will rust, and get crap in my tank.
Especially top half wher there is usually no petrol covering.
So its to seal inside of tank against rust, rather than stop a leak etc
Martin
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Be careful. I sealed the inside of my TV 175 II tank with some stuff I bought from a motorcycle shop and did a wonderful job at it. I was quite proud. Later in the restoration I decided to have the tank powdercoated. It turned out beautifully - a work of art. Then I looked inside thre tank. It was full of dense foam similar to the spray can insulation foam. It turns out that the heat from powdercoating expanded the lining. I had to have a radiator shop soak it in acid, which ruined the powdercoating (and some of the brazing) so I had to weld up a spot, blast off the coating, have it re powdercoated, then re lined with the sealer. It worked fine from then on but it was a VERY expensive mistake.
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Not sure if you guys have this stuff available in the UK but Red-Kote works a treat:
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html
Developed for the aviation industry, fills gaps up to 1/32" and is ethanol resistant up to 15%. Plus you get to save whatever you don't use so 1 can will do 3 or 4 tanks. I've done tons of seals using this stuff and have yet to see a failure. Plus if you screw up, you just dump in some MEK and it will dissolve it so you can start over.
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html
Developed for the aviation industry, fills gaps up to 1/32" and is ethanol resistant up to 15%. Plus you get to save whatever you don't use so 1 can will do 3 or 4 tanks. I've done tons of seals using this stuff and have yet to see a failure. Plus if you screw up, you just dump in some MEK and it will dissolve it so you can start over.
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I've used this Por 15 on about 20 tanks in the last 10 years and had good results and no problems, the oldest seal job is stil in very good condition but follow instructions carefully.ArmandTanzarian wrote:I used this stuff. Don't know if it works yet because I haven't filled up with petrol.
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-tanks ... alers.html
Rather than use their cleaner which is bloody expensive I used a bottle of oven cleaner which looked to have pretty much the same ingredients (Sodium Hydroxide). I chucked in a handful of nuts and bolts and then gave it all a good shake until I got bored. I then left it for 24 hours, turning it over every now and then. I don't know what it did to the tank but the nuts and bolts came out looking like new.
I also managed to seal my hands which on the downside has given them a creepy grey sheen but on the upside has made them impervious to all known petrochemicals.
- victor
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Can't be said enough times; ethanol is much less aggressive to most types of plastic than are petroleum based products such as petrol, oil etc.
You would imagine but not taken for granted that a tank sealer should be resistant against petroleums, alcohols as well as any kind of additive added to modern fuels...
You would imagine but not taken for granted that a tank sealer should be resistant against petroleums, alcohols as well as any kind of additive added to modern fuels...