DC electrical System?
Hi Soulsurfer.
I’m thinking of carrying out this conversion, when I look at your link http://www.forums.ilambretta.com/viewto ... cs&start=0 the photo of the installation of the podtronic unit shows one yellow wire is connected to the rectifier. Where does the spare yellow wire connected too? Is that connected to the regulated output?
Is it as per the drawing posted by oioivespaboy?
A little bit confussed
Thanks in advance

I’m thinking of carrying out this conversion, when I look at your link http://www.forums.ilambretta.com/viewto ... cs&start=0 the photo of the installation of the podtronic unit shows one yellow wire is connected to the rectifier. Where does the spare yellow wire connected too? Is that connected to the regulated output?
Is it as per the drawing posted by oioivespaboy?
A little bit confussed

Thanks in advance

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- soulsurfer
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There are two yellows on the unit, it doesn't matter which way you connect theyellow and "new" yellow to these. Red connects to the loom as normal and black to earth as normal.
I did this conversion to my other scoot this weekend (Wassel unit, £21.50, micksenior on eBay) but without any spots and without a battery or capacitor and the lights really are brighter and once a DC horn is fitted it can actually be heard, allbeit a very loud duck fart as opposed to a loud toot with a battery fitted.
I did this conversion to my other scoot this weekend (Wassel unit, £21.50, micksenior on eBay) but without any spots and without a battery or capacitor and the lights really are brighter and once a DC horn is fitted it can actually be heard, allbeit a very loud duck fart as opposed to a loud toot with a battery fitted.
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- Monty
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Final numpty questions on this, Do I need to run a battery?
Are you putting all your loads onto the battery just to ensure smooth supply, Ipod, phone, Rev Counter etc
Are you putting all your loads onto the battery just to ensure smooth supply, Ipod, phone, Rev Counter etc
- soulsurfer
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There's no limit on your number of questions Monty 
You don't need to run a battery, as I say above, as the power is very stable and constant throughout the loom. I run a battery on my Team Lotus due to the load of the pathfiders together with the usual lighting totalling around 107 watts exceeding the actual power output of a 120 watt BGM stator plate
. On my SX I don't run any accessories so don't need a battery. I am going to do a an H4 conversion though but this should also be fine without a battery.

You don't need to run a battery, as I say above, as the power is very stable and constant throughout the loom. I run a battery on my Team Lotus due to the load of the pathfiders together with the usual lighting totalling around 107 watts exceeding the actual power output of a 120 watt BGM stator plate

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I hope this doesn't come back and bite you?soulsurfer wrote:There's no limit on your number of questions Monty
.
Is there any chance of a quick sketch please?
Just to be clear in my block of wood, you now have two yellow wires from your BGM,
Yellow 1 is the normal standard wire, where does this connect too?
Yellow 2 is the new yellow wire soldered to the old ground, where does this connect too?
thanks.
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- soulsurfer
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The Pod/Wassel unit has four wires that you connect together with bullet connectors, or similar, two yellow which you connect the two yellow from the stator (either way round, it doesn't matter), one red which connects to your loom and one black that you connect to earth. It really is that simple 

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- soulsurfer
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Cool, let me know how it goes.
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- Monty
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OK I said it was to be my weekend project
Got the unit from ebay as you recomended
Spent a bit of time making a bracket to fit it on top of the AC rectifier, my thoughts been if I connect it with a nylon plugs and socket I could unplug the DC ond connect the AC if anything went wrong
All works on AC as before, unplug the AC rectifier and plug in the DC and it works as well, my only problem is the voltage
Lights on 7.4V DC its very stable only goes up a few points but not over 8V
I am using a good electronic Fluke meter and am confident the voltage is correct
I expected it to be around 13v so it would trickle charge any battery
Headlight is a bit dimmer, Rear Led better than before so I am getting the benefit of DC
BGM 120W stator
Extra wire (Blue in my case) soldered to the last coil after cutting the earth tab, all heatshink and epoxied up.
Blue and yellow to the unit's yellows, Black to ground red to the loom.
On the AC plug I have the Blue to Ground and the yellow and Brown to the regulator as normal
If it was a 6 volt system I would be happy
Any ideas
Got the unit from ebay as you recomended
Spent a bit of time making a bracket to fit it on top of the AC rectifier, my thoughts been if I connect it with a nylon plugs and socket I could unplug the DC ond connect the AC if anything went wrong
All works on AC as before, unplug the AC rectifier and plug in the DC and it works as well, my only problem is the voltage
Lights on 7.4V DC its very stable only goes up a few points but not over 8V
I am using a good electronic Fluke meter and am confident the voltage is correct
I expected it to be around 13v so it would trickle charge any battery
Headlight is a bit dimmer, Rear Led better than before so I am getting the benefit of DC
BGM 120W stator
Extra wire (Blue in my case) soldered to the last coil after cutting the earth tab, all heatshink and epoxied up.
Blue and yellow to the unit's yellows, Black to ground red to the loom.
On the AC plug I have the Blue to Ground and the yellow and Brown to the regulator as normal
If it was a 6 volt system I would be happy
Any ideas