how du u bleed disc brake ?

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rbgaz
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i cant get this lever firm ive tryed the halfords bleed kit, try old way, even left lever held in overnight, the lever has a 3 inches of play before it gos firm an locks the disc, is this common on a scootrs disc ?
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carlos fandango
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Just did my sterling/spaq one today. just keep pumping the lever loads of times with the top off the master cylinder. You should see the bubbles coming out at the bottom of the m/c, it also helps to tap the hose to help the bubbles up the pipe.
When the lever starts to go stiffer, bleed from the bleed nipple. slacken off the nipple 1/2 a turn pull the lever in and hold it in, then nip the nipple back up then let go of the lever and repeat 3 or 4 times, you should see/ hear the air coming out. After the 3rd or 4th time the air should have stopped, and the lever action should be firm. N.B. keep your eye on the level of fluid dont let it go to low or you will suck more in :(
If you pull the lever in and it goes further in, or feels spongey the first time, and less in or firmer the second and third time you still have air in and you will need to bleed some more.

hope that make sense :? i spent about 15 to 20 mins pumping today and that was only with a new hose. The method of sucking through with a syringe is probably the quickest way, but if you haven't got a syringe you will have to do as above 8-)

Hope that helps

Russell
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sean brady scooters
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another thing to be aware of is that sometimes you can get an air lock in the hose where it passes through your handle bars....depending on the routing.
this can be helped out by leaning your scoot over to the left..... :D
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rbgaz
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carlos fandango wrote:Just did my sterling/spaq one today. just keep pumping the lever loads of times with the top off the master cylinder. You should see the bubbles coming out at the bottom of the m/c, it also helps to tap the hose to help the bubbles up the pipe.
When the lever starts to go stiffer, bleed from the bleed nipple. slacken off the nipple 1/2 a turn pull the lever in and hold it in, then nip the nipple back up then let go of the lever and repeat 3 or 4 times, you should see/ hear the air coming out. After the 3rd or 4th time the air should have stopped, and the lever action should be firm. N.B. keep your eye on the level of fluid dont let it go to low or you will suck more in :(
If you pull the lever in and it goes further in, or feels spongey the first time, and less in or firmer the second and third time you still have air in and you will need to bleed some more.
done all this a zillon times over my hand an head hurts !!!!

hope that make sense :? i spent about 15 to 20 mins pumping today and that was only with a new hose. The method of sucking through with a syringe is probably the quickest way, but if you haven't got a syringe you will have to do as above 8-)

Hope that helps

Russell
slade
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Try removing your lever from the master cylinder and pushing the piston in and out with a screwdriver or somthing similar taking care not to damage the rubber,this has worked for me in the past due to being able to get more fluid through per pump especially with some of the bad pattern levers about. Hope this helps
vince
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if the master cylinder piston is returning all the way out and the pipes go downwards you can actually bleed the system using nothing more than gravity :!: Just fill the resivour at the top open the bleed nipplle at the bottom with a clear pipe attached so you can see whats going on and let gravity do the rest, there is a direct route for the fluid to follow so should go through the system ,make sure you keep the resivour topped up.After doing this I will sometimes use the close bleed screw, pump the lever a few times and with pressure on lever open bleed screw to force any trapped air ,CLOSE BLEED BEFORE RELEASING LEVER system , After bleeding i will tie up the lever for 24 hours to help the any trapped air rise out of fluid and out of the system as suggested above.

If you are experiencing a lot of lever movement was the bleed nipple on the caliper at the very top , air will be trapped if it is not , some highbreds need to be removed to be bleed properly.
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DJB
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Syringe. I have used this method 100s of times, its takes no longer than 2mins. If that dont work,then you have a problem with your brakes.
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JOHNNY
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just done mine tonight front double disc , rear disc and clutch half hour the lot . forget bleeding them buy pumping the lever at the master , heres a very very easy way take the top off the master , go get a big syringe a short length of pipe to fit the bleed nipple , put a ring spanner on the nipple then the hose , open the nipple then push the fluid back up the system it'll work its way up and fill the master , close the nipple off unclip syringe empty the master then repeat a couple of times job done , very quick and easy , it would also help to take the caliper off wedge a peice of wood between the pads and make sure there fully open this will stop any air getting trapped behind the pads . ive tried all types of gizmos to help bleed the damn things and this way byfar is the easiest ive found.
rbgaz
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well ive tryed every way now and still the same dont get me wrong it stops u ok just want better feel an control over it if u see what i mean,when i was having it mot yesterday i tryed all the bikes brakes and most only had about half inche lever travel at most, perhaps i just got a duff one, ive had the top off the master and lever pulled in since 10am yesterday and havnt noticed any bubbles coming up
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minotaur
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which disc do you have? if its an inboard you need to take up the slack with the static pad, by turnig in the adjuster at the wheel
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