Vespa Rally 200 clutch basket

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storkfoot
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Had a look at my clutch at the weekend. The basket needs replacing as it is getting battered by the backplate.

I'm not too good at keeping mileage records but I do use it for work everyday. So, whilst the clutch isn't new it's not particularly high mileage.

Two questions:

Is this just a fact of life with the clunky Vespa clutch?
Should I just buy a cheap replacement basket on the basis it is just going to get battered again?
Ginch
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If your cush drive is buggered it can transfer the clunk directly to the clutch and speed up the wear.
Otherwise you can spend a bit more and buy a CNC clutch basket.
Jack221
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As long as you are fairly standard power one of these will go straight in
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... +_93040000
Or this if you want this to be the last clutch basket you ever buy for it
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... o_93245000
Vespa est ieiunas, quia semper operaturi
storkfoot
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Thanks for that. I'll split the clutch later and check the cush drive. It is a standard engine except for a SIP road 2.

I'll let you know what I find.
storkfoot
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Image
Image

Well, it wasn't just the basket that was shot, the steels are too. The cush drive also is a bit loose.
Jack221
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Looks not so bad. Could be way worse. Obviously the whole lot goes in the bin. Cosa II clutch is what I would put in.
If the cush drive is loose you might get away with tapping the rivets tight but looking at that clutch the cush springs will be shot. Is usual to change cruciform and oil seals while you have it split.
That DRT plate looks like a 24 tooth, if it is, there is a Cosa one the same but a standard Rally certainly doesn't need a 24 tooth, so I would put it back at 23/65 while you are doing the cush drive.
Vespa est ieiunas, quia semper operaturi
storkfoot
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Thanks. I shall take on board what you say.

It's not too long since I rebuilt the engine. I have tried preening the rivets last time this happened. It didn't last long and, as you say, I don't see anything of note that is retrievable in this lot.

Is there any downside to the Cosa clutch?
gaz_powell
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Cosa 2 Clutch was one of the best things I bought after using the old 7 spring type on my mk1 P2. I fitted it and forgot it in the mildly tuned touring motor (top end, bottom end, cut crank, SIP performer, 26mm carb (the other was an EFL gearbox !)
I did buy a genuine Piaggio one mind and I know there were lots of pattern ones that give issues.

I stripped the engine to replace a drive seal so stripped clutch - it was all go but as it was a part I replaced the corks and springs and thrust washer (but it would have gone on)

They are fitted with a wavy washer and a flange nut but you can still fit the castle nut and basket washer arrangement for belt and braces (which I did) but use a good quality nut (there are some made of cheese)

Standard P2/Rally uses a 23 cog/tooth

Gaz
storkfoot
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Jack221 wrote:Looks not so bad. Could be way worse. Obviously the whole lot goes in the bin. Cosa II clutch is what I would put in.
If the cush drive is loose you might get away with tapping the rivets tight but looking at that clutch the cush springs will be shot. Is usual to change cruciform and oil seals while you have it split.
That DRT plate looks like a 24 tooth, if it is, there is a Cosa one the same but a standard Rally certainly doesn't need a 24 tooth, so I would put it back at 23/65 while you are doing the cush drive.

Good spot. It is a 24. I'm not sure how that happened! It ran okay though.
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Muttley McLadd
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storkfoot wrote:
Good spot. It is a 24. I'm not sure how that happened! It ran okay though.
If it pulls 24 ok, I'd be tempted to put it back in a similar fashion.
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