LTH Reed

Anything related to Lambrettas... ask tech questions, post helpful info, or just read and learn.
oldbiker
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wack 63 wrote:Can anyone tell me if the plastic spacer is meant to be used? It looks to me that it is meant for the Minarelli reed fitment. All it does is move the block away from the inlet port.Also I think I read on the Lambretta -teile website to use the white petals?. Cheers
On many bikes it is normal to put a spacer between the reed block and the barrel or reed block and crank case (case reed ported engines),
this is so that the reeds do not obstruct any boost ports that are fed directly from the inlet.

if the reed valve is just feeding an inlet port on a barrel it usualy is not needed. my experiance is with primmies and jap bikes so I can not give specific advice on your barrel but I hope this gives you a clue.
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sean brady scooters
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NO the plastic spacer is not needed.
so long as your reeds have the room to open fully without catching
this is easily checked and if a little grinding/tinckering is needed ,then its better than using the spacer as it puts the reeds a bit closer to the piston .
Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698
Jazzy
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chris2470 wrote:Sorry to go off subject a little, but with regards to ali welding has anybody used these rods before:
http://durafix.co.uk/
They look like a fantastic bit of kit especially used in the above type application, dirt cheap also.
Durafix looks preety good,
is 700 odd degrees enough for our aplications or will it melt?
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Andy Pickering
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So could one of these be bolted to a standard iron barrel..? food for thought for future development.
Ricspeed, gone but never forgotten RIP my friend #59
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sean brady scooters
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of course they can Andy,
I did my first reed conversion on a cast barrel in the early 80,s and have done lots over the years. :D
Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698
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wack 63
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Just done a mates' LTH, first one I've fitted. Surprised how hard the bore wall was to cut,seemed easier to do the other ports(Indian cast)The port is 20 mm wide but looking at it now I think I could have gone wider but didn't want to risk the nice new Racetour and rings. I was aiming for a 25 degree angle but started to run into the manifold stud and anymore would have left a big hole and not a lot to screw into. Image Image Image Image
After emailing LTH ,I got a swift reply from Marco saying to use the white petals as they are more responsive and not use the plastic spacer, so hope this helps others.It would be nice to know how near to the ring peg you could go,had a look at a Malossi 166 kit and the pegs are around 5mm from the exhaust port so I have left plenty on this one.cheers
J1MS
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Not sayin this is what you should do:
But some well known scooter tuners have run the ring peg through the center of the boost port, as the shallow angle is supposed to give a low loading to the open ring end, doing it this way you can cut two boost ports into the inlet instead of one, and these two boost ports can be equally spaced in the bore instead of off set in relation to the main transfers, as some seem to be doing...
Others I know have re-pegged pistons (me included) to move the ring end gap away from the boost port...

Some just notch out the back of the ring (carefully) where needed and run this notch over the ring peg (Depending on the type of peg and ring) leaving the free ends of the ring now in a different position but without a peg, some also repeg as well as cutting a notch some grind the old ring peg away and run it on a new repositioned peg...

There are many approaches to the same problem, some easy & some complicated...
Dimitrios_231
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Nice modifications guys,

I have two Rapido barrels that are ready,
so I won't do any extra piston mods or barrel porting.
I use a 30mm PHBH and it is very thirsty.

If I use the reed kit,
without modifications will I lose top end performance?

Will I double the mpgs?

Cheers.
ScooterLoopyJohn
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Before we all go mad over these some small issues , A slight removal of one fin tip is all i needed to do to get it to sit but the port area is done for 150 and 200 stud size this is a mistake on there design and should be port size spasific. the gasket area remaining after blending is poor and as the stud holes are slots you need to dowel it to the barrel for location. to be honest they should have done two types as this would be simple on the CNC. Sales alone would have told them % of 200 to 150 port sizes. this is not a simple fit and forget product but IMHO very good at what it can be when fitted correctly. well done all involved with this product. just needs a little more R&D.
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markdicko
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Any more updates on the lth reedblock ie has it cured spitback and fuel consumtion on a rapido 225 race just wondering what results peeps have had?
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