Li150 S3 Front Fork/Suspension question

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kurtminus
registered user
Posts: 33
Joined: Sat May 08, 2021 4:51 pm
Main scooter: Lambretta Li150
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Hi All,

I've got a 65' Li150 S3 that I've been sorting out. I'm really getting it dialed it nicely. I've got the carb tuned properly, the lights working well, the brakes dialed in. I've also fitted SULK clips, which solved the terribly annoying floor board rattling I've suffered since I got the scoot.

The next thing on the list is something I wasn't even able to distinguish until I solved the other problems.

The front forks/suspension seem a little off. I don't know what's "normal" for a Li150 S3 so I don't know if it's correct or not, but it's just feels really rattly at the slightest bump.

Is it normal for the front suspension to feel kinda rattley? Do I need to rebuild the front forks or something? What's the way to tell?

Thanks!
Warkton Tornado No.1
registered user
Posts: 296
Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:16 pm
Main scooter: Lambretta SX200
Contact:

Suspension & steering are so important as key elements to ensure your safety that, with respect, they should be your absolute priority.

Please do not doubt that.

It is the correct thing to ask for help, but whilst any doubts exist about the front end of your scooter, you really should not be riding it.

Sorry to sound so harsh, but I needed to state the above.

If you don't know what is wrong with the front end, if anything, then the right thing to do is to try & find out.

'B*ll*cking' over, here's what I suggest you do.

SI -SIII forks suspend the front wheel in an inverted 'U' via links which are pushrod sprung.

That means a lever each side of the wheel pivoting on a plain bearing. If they are not moving in unison due to lack of lubrication, bearing failure, seizure or whatever, then they need stripping out & checking.

Those levers ('links') in turn have pushrods & springs pressing them down. The same issues as as for the links apply.

As you need the front wheel out, you can strip that & check. It has a torque slot that engages with a torque pin on the RH link. That is the first source of clunking, built in by design, but Hey Ho.......

The brake shoes, wheel rIm attachment studs, bearings, seals all need to come under scrutiny.

Check the forks fit to the frame. The bearings may be shot or need lubrication or tightening.

Check the headset is tight on it's fork clamp & the fork clamp 'clamps' as well.

Gasp!

I've probably forgotten something, but I have every confidence you will sort this all out.

It's not as daunting as it may sound, once you accept the inevitable, & look what you will learn in the process!

Good Luck with it :D
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