So far I have built 3 of these motors now. All using 60/110 crankshafts and RT225 kits.
After installing the engines into the S3 frames, the cylinders, with cooling tin installed, are touching the front right part of the frame loop. Is the only good solution for this problem to trim an amount off the frame loop? I noticed on a recent picture posted to Rimini Lambretta Center's Instagram, that they trimmed about 3mm-4mm off this part of the frame. Anyone else trim their frame to accommodate a longer cylinder set-up? I am not a fan of offset cones.
Frame modification necessary for S3 when using 60/110 crank and RT225?
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ulyssescale
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A chicken ain't nothing but a bird.
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Minority
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Fitted one to same spec (SX200) and didn’t have this problem. Could you maybe have the longer S2 rear shock fitted? The Rimini offset cones with the flat sided engine bar are excellent for topend clearance issues without the possible offset cone downside of twisting cones.
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ulyssescale
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Using a Protech rear shock in a late-Jet frame with late-Jet case. I’m using a CST3 exhaust so I’m not really interested in lowering my engine.
A chicken ain't nothing but a bird.
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drunkmunkey6969
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Well, you only have 3 choices:ulyssescale wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 6:36 am Using a Protech rear shock in a late-Jet frame with late-Jet case. I’m using a CST3 exhaust so I’m not really interested in lowering my engine.
1) Offset cones - this is a very easy solution, and the least hassle, the CASA ones with a flat-edged bar are a great choice... but you have already stated: "I am not a fan of offset cones."
2) Fit a shorter rear shock - this is easy, but has a larger cost attached... but you have stated: "I’m using a CST3 exhaust so I’m not really interested in lowering my engine"
3) Get the grinder out - let us know how you get on
See our YouTube scooter channel for Tech-help: https://www.youtube.com/c/TheScooterFactory/videos
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ulyssescale
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I knew this was gonna be the situation. I was hoping someone would tell me something I hadn’t considered. I have the Casa flat-sided bolt with offset cones in my SSR265 and it’s good. I’ll just go with that. Cutting pieces off my frame seems like a last resort. But if it comes to that, I guess I’ll just take a deep breath and put on some safety glasses.
Thanks everyone.
A chicken ain't nothing but a bird.
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Warkton Tornado No.1
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If it only the tinware &/or cylinder head, I know which I would sacrifice rather than the frame.
Offset cones are all very well if they can be fitted & kept synced as per RLC's, but it is yet another 'variable' IMO......
Offset cones are all very well if they can be fitted & kept synced as per RLC's, but it is yet another 'variable' IMO......
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ulyssescale
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Warkton Tornado No.1
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In the interests of sharing information, is the "carbon fiber tin" an issue because:
a) no way will any head cowling fit even with some modification?
b) you do not want to modify the cowling in such a manner?
If we know the reason, we all learn & those of us trying to help will avoid making the same 'mistake' in our attempts.