Engine Nip!

[drunkmunkey6969]

I run in "short and hard"- on 4% semi synth.

Loads of short journey (3 miles max), using all the gears and giving it some "welly". Back home- let it cool and repeat. Up and down the box- don't be afraid to rev it. Don't leave it in one gear for too long, and don't let it labour on hills.

Works for me

Chris

Good advice. Lots of heat cycles, lots of short journeys, varying rev range, don't labour the engine.


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[soulsurfer]

Remember... oil lubricates and fuel cools


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[Martin20]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Will stick to shorter distances from now on! Just will take so long , and also, I am having trouble starting bike when it is warm, but will start a new thread for that issue. (I know there has been loads already on here, but I have just about tried everything recommended!)

*Chris, when you say"give it some welly", I have been trying not to go past quarter throttle. Will it be OK to open it up a little over short distances?

Cheers
Martin

[soulsurfer]

Rev it through the gears off the lights

[Adam_Winstone]

"I have been trying not to go past quarter throttle", remember that 1000 miles at 1/4 throttle equates to zero miles at 1/2, 3/4 or full throttle and that you'll need to ensure that jetting and timing is suitable when you start running at these positions. Many people assume that you can run in at low throttle openings and that the job is done, whereas you need to ensure that all is well (when you have miles enough to start opening it up) at all throttle positions.

Best of luck with it.

Adam

[bristolmod]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Will stick to shorter distances from now on! Just will take so long , and also, I am having trouble starting bike when it is warm, but will start a new thread for that issue. (I know there has been loads already on here, but I have just about tried everything recommended!)

*Chris, when you say"give it some welly", I have been trying not to go past quarter throttle. Will it be OK to open it up a little over short distances?

Cheers
Martin

I tend to let it rev quite high in each gear- not afraid to wind the throttle wide open- but only for short periods.

I find that if you go up through the box then back down using some "engine braking" this helps.

BUT- only short cycles- max 3 miles and ALWAYS change up and down every few seconds.
Don't let it get too hot and don't leave it in one gear at one speed for anything over 10 seconds.

Chris

[eden]

"I pulled in clutch, coasted for a 100 yards or so, let clutch out whilst in second gear ", I used to do this, until I broke rings trying it and it left me stranded in the middle of nowhere and needing recovery. I got a 'rocket up the a$$' when I told a respected engine builder what I'd done and he said that I should NEVER to this again as it places massive pressure on the engine components and an easy way to snap rings. I was suitably told off!

Much better idea to pull clutch in , coast to a stop, take the plug out and sit chilling out for 5 whilst the motor cools. With any luck the top end will free off as it cools and you can then restart and off you go, without putting the massive stress of trying to force rings and piston free in a 'make or break' situation... as break is quite likely.

Adam

Don't agree.... I always get it going asap, chances are if you don't and pull over that the rings will remain stuck in the piston due to ali smear and it wont start, leaving you stranded. Running steady after a nip up removes the Ali smear from the rings and frees them up. Rings brake due to too big exhaust ports or peg failure, I've never broke a ring through a heat seizure.

[Adam_Winstone]

"I've never broke a ring through a heat seizure.", me neither... only by deciding to coast and then let the clutch out x

Adam

[Adam_Winstone]

Eden,

You also need to remember that not everyone is using such good rings as you've become used to either. The Mitaka Jap type pistons, and some of the Prox, etc., have got great rings that are VERY forgiving. Try the 'clutch out' with a standard piston and you might/might not get away with it.

Yes, that is a darned good reason to improve the quality of piston and rings but you cannot assume that everyone has upgraded to such. Indeed, some of the 'thin ring' pistons around are thin but not actually terrible flexible or resilient to damage.

Yep, some goes for exhaust width... with what is becoming road common, based on extremely good rings available for some pistons, being deadly for anything other than top quality rings. Read the 60% max bore/port ratio quoted in many 80s/90s texts (when good quality Jap pistons and rings were already readily available) and it makes you question % figures that many dyno donkeys are tuned to these days... but that's quite a different issue to 'clutch out' breakage.

Adam

[eden]

"I've never broke a ring through a heat seizure.", me neither... only by deciding to coast and then let the clutch out x

Adam

that's what I meant, never done rings by costing and then letting the clutch out