Morning All.
Does anyone have any design/materials for an engine mount removal tool. Don't really want to pay £30-£40 quid for one!!!
Cheers All.
Randy
Engine Mount Removal Tool - Homemade
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- EddieStone
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There's a drawing here: http://rays-shed.co.uk/lambretta_info/e ... 20tool.pdf
I have the pdf if the link doesn't work. If you're making one, can you make one for me too?!
I have the pdf if the link doesn't work. If you're making one, can you make one for me too?!
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Link works fine eddie.
Will have a go when I get a chance.
Will do an extra for sure but cant say when Ill get on to it though. Kitchen needs tiling completed
Guessing a flat plate can be used instead of the thicker section of tube as shown.?
Will have a go when I get a chance.
Will do an extra for sure but cant say when Ill get on to it though. Kitchen needs tiling completed
Guessing a flat plate can be used instead of the thicker section of tube as shown.?
- EddieStone
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I guess so. As long as it's strong enough and the right size to go through the case.
I'm in no rush - still got a chop to finish
I'm in no rush - still got a chop to finish
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A word of caution, the original tool is designed to prevent the casing lugs from breaking when with-drawing or mounting the mounts using heat , deviate from the design and risk breaking the casing lugs as many others have done in the past , it will then cost you a lot more than £30-£40 .
Fairspares Lambretta workshop.
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http://rays-shed.co.uk/lambretta_info/e ... 20tool.pdf
That drawing ^ is for Li style engine mounts, not the larger mounts that most of us use.
If you build a removal tool for the larger type, it will work for the smaller mounts too.
That drawing ^ is for Li style engine mounts, not the larger mounts that most of us use.
If you build a removal tool for the larger type, it will work for the smaller mounts too.
Martin
- HxPaul
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I used a peice of threaded bar two nuts,two sockets and a lot of heat to remove mine.One socket was the same dimeter as the silent block and the other one was large enough for the silent block to fit inside.To fit the large silent block I again used lots of heat,the same threaded bar and two nuts,but this time I used two washers,one large enough to cover the back of the large silent block and the other covered the hole in the engine.The centre bush is a bit longer than the outside of the silent block so one of the washers must press only on the outside of the silent block.
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I've seen a good few stripped threads on the bolt and nut.
Best thing I ever did was go to my local Nut & Bolt supplier, and get a couple of nuts that are 2" long. (about £1 each)
No chance of stripping threads and makes it easier
Best thing I ever did was go to my local Nut & Bolt supplier, and get a couple of nuts that are 2" long. (about £1 each)
No chance of stripping threads and makes it easier
- corrado
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I sell the correct tool for £24.99 + P&P [which is probably cheaper than anyone is selling them for to start with] but for anyone on here I'll do free P&P. One of those jobs with the potential to break your casing if you're not careful, plus it's not £25 down the pan as you could use it once and easily sell it on the next day for £20.
- HxPaul
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I agree.If I'd have known about that I would have bought one,it would have saved all the trouble sourcing and f*+king about with threaded rod and washers.corrado wrote:I sell the correct tool for £24.99 + P&P [which is probably cheaper than anyone is selling them for to start with] but for anyone on here I'll do free P&P. One of those jobs with the potential to break your casing if you're not careful, plus it's not £25 down the pan as you could use it once and easily sell it on the next day for £20.