Hi all,
(And hi Paul)
Collected this the other day with the intention of just cleaning it up a little but I have since decided to do a back to metal respray.
In general the scooter is very clean and obviously kept inside and dry.
Over the last 2 evenings I have taken the frame apart and will soon start on the engine.
Some random pics. ..
TV175 1963 strip and rebuild
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Last edited by fluff34567 on Fri Dec 23, 2016 11:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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As you can see there is some damage to the stand mount holes.. . I plan to knock it back flat and stop drill the cracks then have them TIG welded. I assume that's the normal route to take?
Engine wise the case has 2 wear marks.. the big one is because who ever did the last restoration only put 1 bolt in the forward mount of the rear mud guard. This allowed it to twist and drop down and rub the casing.
The other damage is from a loose wheel stud.
I will smooth the damages and check the remaining casing thickness.
On the RH rear floor support the leg is bolted but on the LH side it is spot welded.... is that normal??
Engine wise the case has 2 wear marks.. the big one is because who ever did the last restoration only put 1 bolt in the forward mount of the rear mud guard. This allowed it to twist and drop down and rub the casing.
The other damage is from a loose wheel stud.
I will smooth the damages and check the remaining casing thickness.
On the RH rear floor support the leg is bolted but on the LH side it is spot welded.... is that normal??
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As you can see there is some damage to the stand mount holes.. . I plan to knock it back flat and stop drill the cracks then have them TIG welded. I assume that's the normal route to take?
Engine wise the case has 2 wear marks.. the big one is because who ever did the last restoration only put 1 bolt in the forward mount of the rear mud guard. This allowed it to twist and drop down and rub the casing.
The other damage is from a loose wheel stud.
I will smooth the damages and check the remaining casing thickness.
On the RH rear floor support the leg is bolted but on the LH side it is spot welded.... is that normal??
Engine wise the case has 2 wear marks.. the big one is because who ever did the last restoration only put 1 bolt in the forward mount of the rear mud guard. This allowed it to twist and drop down and rub the casing.
The other damage is from a loose wheel stud.
I will smooth the damages and check the remaining casing thickness.
On the RH rear floor support the leg is bolted but on the LH side it is spot welded.... is that normal??
- Doom Patrol
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The damage to the cross member is typical of somebody sitting on the scooter while it's on the stand. It's a big no, no. You can see what happens. Otherwise it looks in good nick. I'm surprised you're painting it, to be honest.
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It wasn't my original plan but there are a few chips and the leg shield has some drill holes in the LH foot area that I would like to fill. Something was mounted there... what I have no idea.
It has had some footboard trim strips / extenders also so there are a load of drill holes along the edges.
What I find strange is the holes were there before the last repaint and they were not filled. I guess it was just a blow over.
It has had some footboard trim strips / extenders also so there are a load of drill holes along the edges.
What I find strange is the holes were there before the last repaint and they were not filled. I guess it was just a blow over.
- garry inglis
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The Rh support leg is bolted on so you can take the chaincase off with engine still in frame
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Ah! Thanks for that.. I was dead tired last night so just asked without doing some searching for myself first... apologies.
- garry inglis
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If it's the original 175 engine and crank you should try and refurb it as they were known for being a great pretty fast engine and the only one that had a 116 crank at the time
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Thanks Gary, the engine number appears correct for the age and is pretty much in line with the frame number dating (maybe my terminology isnt correct but im sure yu know what i mean)
As i know absolutely nothing about lambrettas or scooters its a learn by doing event but I am an engineer by trade and have built quite a few bikes and cars in the past. So far its been really easy but I can see I will need a few special tools: clutch, rear hub, fronk fork compressor thingy, silent block.
I can see the piston has been replaced but according to the paperwork it only has 24000 kms (15000 miles). I will eventually split the cases and see whats going on with the crank.
oh very nice restoration BTW.. i like the stands and will shamelessly steal the design
As i know absolutely nothing about lambrettas or scooters its a learn by doing event but I am an engineer by trade and have built quite a few bikes and cars in the past. So far its been really easy but I can see I will need a few special tools: clutch, rear hub, fronk fork compressor thingy, silent block.
I can see the piston has been replaced but according to the paperwork it only has 24000 kms (15000 miles). I will eventually split the cases and see whats going on with the crank.
oh very nice restoration BTW.. i like the stands and will shamelessly steal the design
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I stand corrected... the piston has not been replaced and is the original Borgo piston at 62mm.
I checked the piston and bore dimensions and it's fine.. piston is 61.90-61.95 and the bore is at 62.025
I checked the piston and bore dimensions and it's fine.. piston is 61.90-61.95 and the bore is at 62.025