I'm having trouble getting the above to seal on a 225 avanti.
I've used 2 different bearings both with the extra seal in, but still burning oil. I've never had this much trouble with the bearings with no seal in - are these just a fad or do I just revert to the bearing with no seal in?
I've also tried MB viton and Rolf seal - still burning gearbox oil.
Using an innocenti seal plate, flat and perfectly round
Any advice greatly appreciated
Drive side bearing
- garry inglis
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How are you fitting the crank and had the two previous seals have tears or splits in and have you tried different halite gasket
- garry inglis
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How are you fitting the crank and had the two previous seals have tears or splits in and have you tried different halite gasket
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You need to make sure the halite washer is being compressed by the seal plate.
"Our dilemma is that we hate change and love it at the same time; what we really want is for things to remain the same but get better."
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yes very important , you will find the gaskets come in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up to 1mm , im just rebuilding a couple of spanish engines and they will only seal with 1mm hallite using the original plates , with some remade plates thinner gaskets can be used .rosscla wrote:You need to make sure the halite washer is being compressed by the seal plate.
Fairspares Lambretta workshop.
Pull the crank in slowly , stopping and turning crank every few mm. crank and seal oiled to ease passagegarry inglis wrote:How are you fitting the crank and had the two previous seals have tears or splits in and have you tried different halite gasket
Where do I get 1mm ones from ?fairspares wrote:yes very important , you will find the gaskets come in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up to 1mm , im just rebuilding a couple of spanish engines and they will only seal with 1mm hallite using the original plates , with some remade plates thinner gaskets can be used .rosscla wrote:You need to make sure the halite washer is being compressed by the seal plate.
Ok good advice cheersrosscla wrote:You need to make sure the halite washer is being compressed by the seal plate.
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i get mine from af rayspeed and mrb , i use skf bearings with extra seal and now put a smear of yamabond on the gasket after someone on here suggested doing it in a previous thread about drive side sealing , it seems to work very well , but dry build first to make sure the drive plate is touching the gasket , it will usually show some markings on the gasket, i start by trying thinner gaskets first, the only problem using thicker gaskets is that sometimes there is not enough clearance between the crank and drive-plate so a crank shim is needed again available from af or mrb.whonatic wrote:Where do I get 1mm ones from ?fairspares wrote:yes very important , you will find the gaskets come in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up to 1mm , im just rebuilding a couple of spanish engines and they will only seal with 1mm hallite using the original plates , with some remade plates thinner gaskets can be used .rosscla wrote:You need to make sure the halite washer is being compressed by the seal plate.
Fairspares Lambretta workshop.
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Sounds like. Your messing up your oil seal when fitting the crank (as I was before Mr Barlow showed me how to do it correctly) put plenty of grease around the seal and the crank and draw it through SLOWLY! Twisting the crank every few twists of the nut.
I use two 1mm halite seals sealed together with a smear of grease and double lip oil seals both from Harry Barlow (the Leicester one). No more problems...
I use two 1mm halite seals sealed together with a smear of grease and double lip oil seals both from Harry Barlow (the Leicester one). No more problems...