rear hub removal ??

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Strummer10
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Guys, any ideas how to remove a rear hub from the layshaft when the conventional tool with the 3 bolts won't do it ? Looks as though someone has had trouble before and partially cross threaded (or pulled out the threads in the 3 holes on the hub)....ALSO hub is well onto the layshaft stuck fairly solid
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22/2
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try to find someone with an original workshop tool, they pull from behind the hub, a bit like this one but for series 1,2, & 3
http://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/me ... tool_5.jpg

There is a technique to removing hubs that many people do not follow, your not supposed to drive them off your supposed to 'shock' them off, that is put the puller under load then give it a bump with a hammer and repeat until it comes off, same for the flywheel.

Or you can strip the motor down and knock the layshaft out through the gear box side
lambro
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Where are you Strummer??
storkfoot
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Hit it from behind with a rubber mallet. It does work if you work around the rim.
Muppet
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storkfoot wrote:Hit it from behind with a rubber mallet. It does work if you work around the rim.
+1
C’est la vie
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GTFOMWSC
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Yep hit from behind with rubber Mallet also hit the tyre not the rim or hub spinning it at the same time helps.
the man don't give a f@@k
warts
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I found the hitting the rim or tyre didn't work. At all. But that was on an original Innocenti Factory fit, in 1967.
Maybe after they have been on and off a few brazillian times they are looser.

The proper extractor and shocking it as 22/2 says is the way to do it.
If the threads are stripped, then it may be possible to drill next oversize and retap, or drill new holes between the old lot.
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coaster
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I'd agree that the correct tool will always be best but when all else fails then hitting from behind has always worked for me but some times a rubber mallet on the tyre is TOO cushioned. Try using a length of 2x2 timber as a drift on the rim rather than the tyre. As Storkfoot said, keep rotating it every blow to avoid distortion.
warts
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Just so long as the OP realises that he can also end up with a cracked drum. DAMHIK.
Adam_Winstone
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coaster wrote:I'd agree that the correct tool will always be best but when all else fails then hitting from behind has always worked for me but some times a rubber mallet on the tyre is TOO cushioned. Try using a length of 2x2 timber as a drift on the rim rather than the tyre. As Storkfoot said, keep rotating it every blow to avoid distortion.
Ditto
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