Getting fed up now!!

[Shipleystevep]

I bought a Spanish 200 engine, complete and original some time ago with the intention of using it to learn more. I am fairly handy with a spanner and have done basic stuff on my lambretta, replace clutch, top-end, replace stator, etc etc. But never built an engine from a bare casing.
Stripped the engine I bought, had it cleaned, and fitted new seals and bearings etc, 12 volt stator and re-built the whole thing. Dropped the engine out of my sx150 and put the newly built engine in. Took a bit of starting but start it did and ran well, but within minutes started pouring out white smoke. b@11@x!! I must have damaged the drive side oil seal.
Stripped it all down and rebuilt it, started 2nd kick - excellent! Round the block and through the gears, all looking and sounding good. Then bloody white smoke again!!!

I'm clearly doing something wrong but don't understand what?? On reading up again the only thing I haven't done is use sealent on the halite washer. Is this absolutely necessary? Before I strip it and try for what will be the 3rd (and final) time, is there anything obvious I could be doing wrong and how can I spot what's wrong when I strip it?
Cheers steve

[Donnie]

dont think it will be sealant on the halite washer Steve, i only grease the gaskets as opposed to any type of sealant.

There could be some other issue if its definitely the drive side seal thats gone? But check it first by running the scooter and blocking the exhaust, this will apparantly tell you if it's defintely the seal as it should choke and die if the seals ok?

I know that some people get white smoke with some carb and exhaust combos, plus if its a new exhaust there can be unburnt stuff in there or some even say that they get it with certain oils and percentages?

Certainly I get some white smoke with my expansion and using lubetech at 3% but it soon burns off once warmed up and on the go?

Not saying its not the seal, but see if you can test this first by blocking the exhaust, you could also just run as is, see if it continues once warmed up after a few miles or not, ive done this and run for over a hundred miles fine then checked the gear oil level, as it will drop if its the seal.

I did this going to Hemsby once, 130ish miles from home knowing the seal was likely gone and brought spare oil. 130 miles to Hemsby, topped up the gear oil and it took 200 mls so definitely burning gear oil.

[Shipleystevep]

Cheers bud,
Just tried it again and it's smoking straight away before the exhaust gets hot so it's not crap in the box that's making the smoke. Doesn't immediately die either when I block the exhaust which isn't a good sign.

I'll strip it again and look carefully at the seal to see if I can see any damage.
It's really bugging me not knowing what I'm doing wrong....

[monkey boy]

Take it out for a decent ride....50 plus miles
The smoke could just be the lubricants you used to build the motor up with burning off!
If it's still smoking after some mileage strip out the top end and the crank.
Check your drive side main bearing is fully home and seated properly.
Fit a new halite washer and quality drive side seal to the seal retaining plate.
Make sure the seal retaining plate is fitted properly and is flush with the recess in the casing.
Fit the crank using the sprocket sleeve and bolt to pull it home to into the bearing.
Lubricate the seal lips and the seal area on the crank before you attempt to fit it,use grease or pre mix oil
Do a half turn on the bolt thenrotate the crank a full turn,half a turn on the bolt full rotation of the crank and so on till its fully home.

[monkey boy]

Hi I meant to say the way in which the crank is pulled through the seal is important,it's easy to fold the lip of the seal over by being over enthusiastic and forcing the crank home too quickly...it will then leak

[Morgan]

Take it out for a decent ride....50 plus miles
The smoke could just be the lubricants you used to build the motor up with burning off!
If it's still smoking after some mileage strip out the top end and the crank.
Check your drive side main bearing is fully home and seated properly.
Fit a new halite washer and quality drive side seal to the seal retaining plate.
Make sure the seal retaining plate is fitted properly and is flush with the recess in the casing.
Fit the crank using the sprocket sleeve and bolt to pull it home to into the bearing.
Lubricate the seal lips and the seal area on the crank before you attempt to fit it,use grease or pre mix oil
Do a half turn on the bolt thenrotate the crank a full turn,half a turn on the bolt full rotation of the crank and so on till its fully home.

Not bad advice, but why not leak test it first to see if it's leaking.................worth doing on every re-build

[hendy]

I had a leak on my drive side seal on a new build recently. I rebuilt it with a tiny smear of threebond 1215 on the outer face of the seal and that sorted it.

Might be worth doing as a matter of course.

[Daggs]

You are putting the seal in correctly? Spring side to crank web.

[10 inch Terror]

I had an issue with the drive side screws being slightly too long and not pulling the drive plate fully home. The small gap it left allowed air to pass between it and the oil seal. I discovered this during a leak down test. As already mentioned they are well worth doing and can save issues such as yours.

[Shipleystevep]

You are putting the seal in correctly? Spring side to crank web.

Well I think so, but I'm questioning everything in my head now.

I will rig up a leak test though next time