Hmmm... we took of the old stator and checked ohms values and they were well below Sticky's level so we proceeded to fit the new BGM stator AND............mile up the road it cut out ??????? GRRRRRRRR.................gotta do a proper check on the ignition switch (as above) but could it be the rectifier ?
Jetex carb on it ?? could it be fuel starvation ..........change carb is also on list......just confused the values on the electrical tester for the old stator writes it off as being any good, but it was doing what the new one is now.....ie . working the same. learning curve again !!
Keeps Cutting Out
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- Monty
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You can run with the regulator disconnected that's for lights etc. As I said just connect the 3 wires from the stator to the CDI. Not the green to the loom. If it's still cutting out swap the CDI with a known good one. After that is it getting fuel
Carb, stuck float/ needle, petrol flow through tap, I've had taps with chunks of rubber blocking the holes in the past. When you try and kick it do you get a wet plug? Have you got a lot of spit back in the carb rubber, is it the same with the carb rubber off.
Carb, stuck float/ needle, petrol flow through tap, I've had taps with chunks of rubber blocking the holes in the past. When you try and kick it do you get a wet plug? Have you got a lot of spit back in the carb rubber, is it the same with the carb rubber off.
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hello have you tried the fuel tap arm that goes to the carb,the part that you get hold of to turn the petrol on I had one that was turning on the end of metal rod so it was not opening the tap proper so it only half filled the float bowl ,then 1/2 mile down the road it stopped only noticed it when I took my panel off and turned the arm..i`m not saying its your problem but its worth a look
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Some replacement float needles will give fuel starvation when fitted to Jetex carbs. Monty's list of checks above is the way that you'll need to work through possible problems to rule one out at a time.
Best of luck with it.
Adam
PS - A blocked tailpipe/exhaust (normally blocked with carbon on old standard exhausts, or the internals falling to bits and blocking the tailpipe internally) will also do a similar thing, where back pressure quickly builds and chokes the motor. Once the motor has stalled, the pressure bleeds away and allows the motor to then restart and do another half miles before repeating the stall issue. You can check this by ramming a wire coat hanger (or similar) up the tailpipe to clear internal debris.
Best of luck with it.
Adam
PS - A blocked tailpipe/exhaust (normally blocked with carbon on old standard exhausts, or the internals falling to bits and blocking the tailpipe internally) will also do a similar thing, where back pressure quickly builds and chokes the motor. Once the motor has stalled, the pressure bleeds away and allows the motor to then restart and do another half miles before repeating the stall issue. You can check this by ramming a wire coat hanger (or similar) up the tailpipe to clear internal debris.
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Thanks guys ........i'm now sure it's probably not an electrical fault, having re-tested the old stator yesterday, the readings albeit low on the indian plate are probably as expected. Gonna look next at the fuel system and exhaust as Adam notes.
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......Hmmm, back looking at that damn GP again today. Just to be clear again on the above posts (im checking them all again) to test the ignition switch. DO I purely pull the green wire from the CDI and kick the bike over , ride it and see if it cuts out. If it doesn't then its the ignition switch causing it to cut out ? Obviously as stated above we will have to stall the bike to turn it off . Thanks again .....P.S...i'm crap at electrics lol , but good on the mechanics side..
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Yes. With the green wire to the headset removed you won't be able to switch it off. Either stall it or put the choke on and flood it.
Checking the flow rate from the tank is an easy job to eliminate a potential fault.
Checking the flow rate from the tank is an easy job to eliminate a potential fault.
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I had exactly the same problem,changed everything,2 new stators,changed CDI,new plug and leads.Eventually found that it was an inline filter,a good make Borg and Beck.I found out that it was for a car and without a fuel pump it flowed very little petrol and when the fuel level fell significantly in the tank it would not flow any petrol at all and the engine stopped.I took the filter off and the scooter has run ok since.
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Interesting we thought we'd solved the fuel starvation issue, but will check again. We changed the carb, petrol tap and fuel pipe and tbh didn't find too much crap. One concern is the wiring on the bike, its got multiple junction boxes connected in the headset and none of the wiring matches any diagrams in Sticky's book...........to compound matters the kickstart shaft is not engaging into the first gear cog but just missing so for now we have to bump it to start it.........