Scooterotica

Hi

I know I have an issue that has been highlighted elsewhere... but I am looking to find out what my options are.

I am in the late stages of a re-build of an S3 TV175 and the only part which did not form part of my dry-build was some Scomadi Forks (supplied pre-built c/w outboard dampers and single disk hub etc). I have enough bikes already that wont stop when I pull the lever and may not be able to rely for too much longer on a vintage biker doing my MOT's - so decided to buy these when the orginal forks turned out to be no-good.

However, whilst hoping to finish the bike this weekend - and putting on the front mudguard etc - I have hit the apparently 'known issue' of the top damper brackets being welded on 20 mm (or so) too high so they hit the front mudguard.

The paint job was expensive (Si Clark) so cutting the bodywork is not viable... narrowing the spacers to bring the whole thing inside the mudguard is not sufficient either (and presumably not advisable).

What can I do? Also... if I decided to bite the bullet and buy replacement forks - are the new ones welded correctly for an S3?

Thanks

Ray

Make sure your measurements are correct,if so and they have been welded in the wrong place,send them back to be rectified or to get your money back.

Hi Paul

Thanks for the fast reply... unfortunately I am a slow worker (average 3-years per bike) and I bought these in 2014.

I am pretty positive my dimms are correct though. I have measured against two other TV's and it is the top brackets that are high on this bike (as opposed to the front mudguard being lower).

It has to be worth a phone call.

They can only say no, and you might get lucky.

is it the bracket or the damper that is catching ?

if it's the damper could it be replaced with a slimmer type ?

I'd agree it's worth a phone call.....they may even have a solution.....

On a series three SX/TV type mudguard before painting you need to Flatten the lip on the inside of the mudguard in the area of the top mount and when building the bodywork just pull the mudguard away from the top bracket , It fits pretty close but can be done , This is what frank told me to do when i bought the dampers,

It is the dampers that are hitting the mudguard... (see image)

Just been out and had another look - I am guessing that the advice to modify the metalwork before painting is to allow me to 'flare' the mudguard side walls - as opposed to lifting the whole thing clear of the dampers. Is that correct? Can't see how I could lift it without then having issues fitting the horn casting.

Obviously I would prefer to use as much of what I have - but does anyone know if these are now made correctly so I can just buy another set of forks and fit my hub/disk/links/damper set-up?

razorlips wrote:It is the dampers that are hitting the mudguard... (see image)

Just been out and had another look - I am guessing that the advice to modify the metalwork before painting is to allow me to 'flare' the mudguard side walls - as opposed to lifting the whole thing clear of the dampers. Is that correct? Can't see how I could lift it without then having issues fitting the horn casting.

Obviously I would prefer to use as much of what I have - but does anyone know if these are now made correctly so I can just buy another set of forks and fit my hub/disk/links/damper set-up?

I have two sets and both hit but to be fare I did dry fit (nightmare ) and on both I ended up using race type fibreglas mudguards for a more sporty look the metal ones needed to much trimming as they do hang quite a bit low, I see you have painted yours
I think the lugs are welded in that position because the out board shocks does poke out quite far compared to standard,
Not the answer your looking for but just my experience.

Oh and your right about lifting the mudguard, it's a f@/kin nightmare been there, forget it mate

I had the same issues on GP's so what I do is turn the spacers down in a lathe, then cut the top and bottom stubs down. This allows the damper to sit nearer to the fork leg. If you use a few washers first to get the spacing right then measure, you will know how much to machine the spacers.

Thanks for this... sounds like the least destructive idea.

I did experiment by swapping the bottom spacer with the top one - then using washers to make a smaller top spacer - but this gave me an issue with the top bolt (I have limited engineering skills and definitely no access to a lathe) - not to mention the fact that the bottom bolt stuck out like something from rollerball.

Do yours otherwise handle OK?

If so, Scomadi should think about making some adapter kits to make the whole thing narrower for the S3... they do advertise on the basis of easy fitting.