Scomadi fork issue series 3

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chippy
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Interesting this. I bought the full kit about a year ago but not even got to the buying a mudguard stage yet as started with just a frame. I look forward to any more ideas and solutions
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wack 63
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Yes you have to shorten the top and bottom pegs, so it's either forks out or use a disc cutter in situ.I would say that the shocks are maybe a bit too firm on bumpy roads but come good on fast A roads.
razorlips
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Great! Just what I didn't want to hear (but thanks for the advice anyway). I have been out there all morning trying to spread the side walls enough to clear the damper without butchering anything - with no success (other than to make the mudguard look like a series 2).

Knowing me I will probably trash the forks since my grinding skills are next to zero! May as well have-a-go anyway though - these quality 'no-hassle' Scomadi forks are otherwise only fit for the skip.

I can't believe they have the arrogance to slag off other pattern parts.

Thanks to all for your help.

Ray
shocky
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Ive had to work on these a few times for the smame reasons you have described slightly spreading mudguards machining new spacers etc
when I do my own conversions I use s2 fork links this gives me an extra 7mm so I can lower the top bracket obviously no good for you as your brackets are already welded , im sure there using a shorter shock now 245/255 mm as opposed to the 265mm ones that you might have
it might be a good idea to put your location in your signature block on your profile that way someone might be local enough to help you out
your pics a bit dark is it a bitubo conversion you have if so the paint literally washes off these shocks I did mine black within 6 months of them new
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shocky
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ImageImage

Actually I just checked mine for length and there 255mm so I could have come down even more on the top bracket if I wanted but the front would be lifted up to much

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razorlips
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Hi all

Jumped on my own question, since the subject is the same (it is just another set of Scomdi forks that is the subject of the question this time)...
So... more than a year passed and, despite trimming the damper pegs, I could not use the Scomadi 'full-monty' outboard/anti-dive set-up with my S3 TV175 (not without butchering the front mudguard - that is) so I have set those forks, disk etc aside for another project.

Although I had at least three sets of compatible originals to hand, I decided to buy a set of Scomadi Stainless steel remade forks instead (I did this mostly because the paint is otherwise completed and the polished stainless steel may not give away the almighty cock up that has been caused by trying the Scomadi with outboard springs in the first place).

However, the new forks come without a lower dust cover and bearing track (which does not surprise me that much) so I spent more £££'s with PM and got a full kit to replace the upper and lower bearings and track (with the probably outcome that I would only use the bearings, lower dust cover and lower track).

However, while the internal diameter of the bearing track is @ 35.67mm the outside diameter of the fork at the point where the bearing is supposed to seat, is 36.08mm (this compares to 35.60 mm and 35.85mm when I measure two original type - one of which is the original set for the bike).

I have also measured the inside diameter of another non PM lower bearing track and this is also @ 35.47mm. Also, since I have access to the other non-stainless steel set of Scomadi forks, I have measured these and they are 35.97 ). This is still fatter than the originals, but more than 0.1mm in the right direction.

I know the track is supposed to be tight, but, this is over 0.4 of a mm of difference, and I think I am being optimistic to assume that I am going to get the track (which is >0.4mm too small) fitted, using nothing more than heat light pressure. More importantly, I don't want to be the only person to have to abort two sets of fit-and-forget Scomadi forks for the same bike.

Everyone who buys these forks 'bare' must have needed to fit the tracks... is one of them out-there with some advice for me?

Ray
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wack 63
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Last set I did was exactly the same but I have a bag of lower tracks from various makers and tried several until I found one that fitted.
holty
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if you have an engineering firm near to you take them your track and explain you want .3 mm removing from the inside its a 2min job on a lathe,
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vega125s
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I had the same issue , heating the first track and trying to gentle push it down resulted in the track snapping . Rang PM and they advised a bit of filing on the fork .
So the track fits now and the forks are in but the damper brackets are to high!
Like you it takes me a few years to build a scooter , I'm just a bit pissed that a lot of this stuff we buy from reputable dealers is so poor, I understand different tolerances/years / models but it's a common problem.
razorlips
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Thanks to both of you for the replies... on the basis that all the other tracks I have here are sitting on forks already - I will try a local engineering firm in the first case.

I discounted this initially because I thought the track would be hardened - and therfore as hard as the tool in a lathe. I guess it doesnt harm to try them.

I also looked closely at another set of Scomadi forks and it really looks like someone had a mare of a job getting the track on those too... indications are that they took the approach of shaving the collar itself - perhaps with a belt sander or similar?

For what it is worth, out of curiosity more than any expectaion of success - I tested how much expansion I get when the track is heated to 200 degress in the oven... it was measurable but less than 0.1mm.

Ray
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