brass exhaust nuts
ok so which way up do they go, everyone iv'e asked has a different opinion and it don't say in sticky's book and why brass ?
-
HxPaul
- registered user
- Posts: 1110
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:58 pm
- Main scooter: lambretta Li 150
- Location: Halifax,Yorkshire
- Contact:
There supposed to go on with the round side towards the engine,when there tightened that side crushes against the stud and locks it into place.There made out of brass because the heat doesn't effect them,unlike steel on steel and there supposed to be easier to remove.
Paul
Paul
-
Strummer10
- registered user
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 7:17 pm
- Main scooter: Lambretta LI Special 225
- Contact:
I use the longer hexagonal steel nuts with spring washers and Loctite on the thread and stayed on to date.......plus if they come loose you can get a spanner or socket on the end of the nut and re-tighten if you need to, but to date they have stood fast
yeah that's what I thought but was unsure, so no washers then ?HxPaul wrote:There supposed to go on with the round side towards the engine,when there tightened that side crushes against the stud and locks it into place.There made out of brass because the heat doesn't effect them,unlike steel on steel and there supposed to be easier to remove.
Paul
http://beedspeed.com/vespa-cylinder-hea ... -3746.html
Same as strummer you can cutthem down a bit if your u bend is to tight and even drill them for lock wire
Same as strummer you can cutthem down a bit if your u bend is to tight and even drill them for lock wire
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
They're supposed to go on with hex. side to the manifold flange with a spring washer underneath. This way gives the greatest surface area contact.
They are made of brass because the combination of extreme heat and exposure to the elements, would make steel versions lock solid on the studs in no time. The nuts are deliberately weaker than the studs to make difficult removal unlikely to damage the studs.
The nuts should be considered as consumables.
They are made of brass because the combination of extreme heat and exposure to the elements, would make steel versions lock solid on the studs in no time. The nuts are deliberately weaker than the studs to make difficult removal unlikely to damage the studs.
The nuts should be considered as consumables.
-
bristolmod
- registered user
- Posts: 1741
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:42 am
- Main scooter: Lambretta TV175 S3- what else!
- Location: Bali-Hai bar, Locarno Ballroom Bristol, 1967!- mines a Brown Split!!
- Contact:
sorry Andy- I disagree.
They are supposed to go on with the "round" bit against the manifold flange- the area is so tight, it is very hard to tighten them up if its done your way.
Check out page 18 of the old work shop manual (4th edition)
Chris
They are supposed to go on with the "round" bit against the manifold flange- the area is so tight, it is very hard to tighten them up if its done your way.
Check out page 18 of the old work shop manual (4th edition)
Chris
Scootering since 1968.
And there you have it 'Yozzer' Differing opinions/different reasoning. I'm sticking with my view. 'Bristolmod' will stick with his. You will have to stick with yours.
Get this from Ian Frankland and never worry again... I'm trying to find the optimal double coil hair pin to fit instead of the SS wire, for ease of use.
Or as said many times before use tab washer from upper chain tensioner and whatever nut you prefer.
Or as said many times before use tab washer from upper chain tensioner and whatever nut you prefer.
Ive not had any seize on I do use coppa slip on the threads
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm