Best reverse pull inboard disc brake?

[Yanker]

Happy with mine: Vented disc, polished the pins it floats on (alt to reaming the holes for the pins) 'normal' pads better than sintered, pad seats matched, ditched the anti-rattle clip. Cable is the beefiest I could find, Piaggio Typhoon I think trimmed to suit, routed through the 'coat-hanger' in a smooth curve down to the clamp. Correct static pad adjustment is CRUICAL as mentioned above. V happy with performance. Light on the hand, loads of feel and will lock the brake with the lever 1/2 way to the grip. First time I presented it at M.O.T. the teaster squeezed the lever all the way in and said 'that's no good' I said 'try it then on the move' he had not seen one of these before

[storkfoot]

I stripped it all down again today. As you can probably just about see, the disc has some pitting but the circlip as worn down over the years so it moves pretty freely on the pins, which already had copper grease on. I've left the circlip in.



I also put the new sintered pads in and shortened the cable again.

After fitting it all back together I tightened up the adjuster until the pads grabbed the disc and then backed it off a 1/4 turn.

Result: much improved and will pass the MOT. It is a little bit juddery but I couldn't get it to "fade" which it was before.

When I've got it registered on the road, I'm going to get the disc skimmed and drilled.

Thanks again

[joey]

..personly i wouldn't drill it...it may crack and the heat it generates as a road scoot might benefit braking..?

[Grumpy225]

..personly i wouldn't drill it...it may crack and the heat it generates as a road scoot might benefit braking..?

There is no benefit in not losing heat. Unless you want a brake that likes to lock up when you aren't trying to stop.

Instead of reworking the old disc I'd go with one of the vented nefrewn discs. I rode a bike with one this weekend and the braking was exceptional (cable operated, normal pull). Granted we had rebuilt the actuating arm so that helped too but the disc had no pulsing and faded correctly when I needed it to.

[storkfoot]

This one, Grumpy?

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 50&p=69209

They aren't cheap

[Grumpy225]

This one, Grumpy?

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 50&p=69209

They aren't cheap

Cheap is relative. If it works and keeps you from under braking then it's money well spent.

I guess that means less money spent on getting the rest of the bike engraved, gold plated and muraled

[storkfoot]

Who told you of my plans?

I do like to endeavour to reuse old original stuff if at all possible. It won't cost much to get the disc machined. Worth a go in my book

[storkfoot]

I had an interesting chat with my MOT man. He's an old 2 stroke bike racer. Been around the block. You know the type (read: not sure I believe everything he tells me but he is clearly very knowledgeable).

One of his previous jobs was as a brake pad tester for a race team. This seemed to involve him shooting down a straight at 160mph before applying the brakes, not always successfully!

He maintains that (i) the holes in discs are to dissipate water, not heat, (ii) he would not get my discs skimmed (I showed him a picture), he would get pads that "match" with my discs (I lost the thread of his argument here to be honest).

Just thought I'd share that

[Grumpy225]

Intresting theory about water displacement. Having felt the affect of an over heating disc I can say the holes are good for heat displacement are a good thing. I don't do a whole lot of rain riding here but anything that can help keep things normal has to be good.

[storkfoot]

Just to finish this off, I never did get the disc machined. I bought the vented disc below from SCK and some slimline bgm dampers and now, finally after all these months, I'm happy with the brake.

http://www.scooter-center.com/product/8 ... 844DD.sco1