Scooterotica

hi,

Just fitting a PM tuning anit dive brake, can someone upload a pic of where the tab on the antidive link needs welding to the forks please? Ive read the instructions which I understand and also spoke to PM tuning, but my OCD is taking over!!! id like to double double check before welding so anyone who has a picture that would be much appreciated!!!

Andy

Get yourself an adjustable bolt on bracket and play about with the position until you are happy with it...THEN weld the bracket on

Yeah, just like Andy for me also a few detailed pic's of the volante disc in place would be of help to me, so if ya have one fitted and can take a few pic's of your set up that would be great, thanx.

coaster wrote:Get yourself an adjustable bolt on bracket and play about with the position until you are happy with it...THEN weld the bracket on

I welded mine so that the tie bar is 90 deg to caliper plate BUT wish I had used an adjustable untill I was happy with the set up - as Coaster suggests

Its not far out and works well but i would have prefered to be 100%

would you lower it or weld it higher up the fork leg ? how does this influence the dive/ride ?

I did buy a bolt on lug from LTH and when i got it to try it bloody wouldn't fit with my shocks , out board style suspension, so i had mine welded on and also not 100% happy, so pic are what i need as i would like to see what way the washers are fitted on your lug carrier arm and caliper carrier and also how tight are the binks nut's supposed to be, thanx.

Have a read of this for a start

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26045

I've just re-read that thread and having now fitted and used my setup for a few weeks, I'm not convinced that there is really any scope for providing 'feel' by moving the bracket up and down. I started off with the bracket (thanks Angry Bloke) mounted slightly lower than a parallelogram and found that there WAS some give. Then, after a couple of brake applications, the brake jammed on and I noticed that the tie rod had gone 'over centre' and had jammed in the dive position. This was partly caused by the tie rod not being fully aligned fore and aft and was easily rectified BUT, it made me think about the forces involved if anything other than a parallelogram is used. The problem as I see it is that the anti dive bracket and suspension would want to move in deferent arcs and that will put a lot of stress on the tie rod and mounting points which will eventually fail due to flexing. My system is now completely parallel and works perfectly, it's using an SIP calliper which is less aggressive that the Nissin type and the leack of dive is still much better imho than the sudden plunge of the previous setup.

Hi I to have just bought a pm tuning anti dive disc brake , we're can I buy a bolt on bracket as I really don't want to weld mine to the forks , cheers

I have just got the Mito twin disc off AFs and Ben said the tab for the Anti dive needs to be at 90deg and Alan at FOXHAT also confirmed 90deg hope that helps.