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RBG
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:33 pm
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Hi.
I'm setting off next week on a 1200 mile trip to Spain on my GP RB22.

Once I would of set off with a spare plug, some oil & a change of clothes & not thought anything about it.
However I'm now a few years older than the last time I did a long distance on a lambretta.

I now realise I need to carry all my oil & loads of other spare parts.

What have you guys that have gone distances carried as parts?
I have spare Gear, Clutch Cables, CDI, Regulator, BGM 120W Stator, Bulbs, flywheel remover tool
Timing disc, Gear/Clutch Trunnions, Solder-less nipples, General Tools & inner tubes.
I'm waiting on a Extra long throttle cable at the moment.

I have fitted a leg-shield toolbox to carry my gear & have a Diablo Tank painted up & ready to fit.
However is it not worth keeping the toolbox to carry the extra tools/oil & stop more often for fuel.
Never used a Long range tank does it really make a difference.

What do you think I should/should not take with me.
Many thanks
RBG
Bilko
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Posts: 1346
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:06 pm
Main scooter: LI150
Location: Belfast
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Personally I'd put the long range tank on. You wouldn't want to run out in the middle of nowhere!
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dapper
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Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:30 pm
Main scooter: The Biriani Bullet
Location: Brighton (well Hove actually)
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Rear hub puller, a homemade flywheel holding tool which doubles as a clutch compressor (my homemade bodge but it works), set of clutch corks in a thick polythene bag with some gear oil in it, some lengths of electrical cable, some bungy straps, some tye raps of various sizes/lengths, gas soldering iron and solder.
Compact Toolbox Flywheel Holder
nastro azzurro
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Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:41 pm
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Question is..........how far do you want to go as regards any repair you want to carry out before calling in the recovery service?
Ive changed a crank and mag side bearing at a rally but I dont think i'd do it again! (And I had breakdown/recovery cover!)
RBG
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Posts: 202
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:33 pm
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Rear hub puller, flywheel holding tool & clutch compressor
I've just been & fished them out.
I'm going to fit the Diablo tank later today.


I'm running a CamLam 6 plate clutch & have no plates Ill get that sorted.
However the motor only has 800miles since rebuild & runs like a dream.
everything was new from the seals to the piston.
The motor runs with a home made filter that fits behind panels
I may leave the panels off to aid cooling or dig out an Indian set & cut some holes.
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soulsurfer
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Location: The Garden Of England
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dapper wrote:a homemade flywheel holding tool which doubles as a clutch compressor (my homemade bodge but it works),
Sound interesting, any pics or drawings?
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rbgaz
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Posts: 539
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:16 pm
Main scooter: gp rb230 dragster 180lc
Location: braintree lambretta breakfast club
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spare piston !!! lol
Bilko
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Main scooter: LI150
Location: Belfast
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soulsurfer wrote:
dapper wrote:a homemade flywheel holding tool which doubles as a clutch compressor (my homemade bodge but it works),
Sound interesting, any pics or drawings?

Was going to ask the same question.
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Directionally dysfunctional since 1966
dapper
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Posts: 930
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:30 pm
Main scooter: The Biriani Bullet
Location: Brighton (well Hove actually)
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I'm too embarrassed to post a picture :oops: , but its basically a longish piece of thick flat bar with a hole at one end ( about 1" wide and 1/4" thick by about 14" long). With the chaincase off, this hole in the bar can be placed over one of the casing studs and a nut placed on top of the bar to anchor one end. When the other end of the bar is depressed over the centre of the clutch, it compresses the clutch allowing the large circlip to be removed and the clutch disassembled. Once the corks or whatever repair has taken place, its used the same way to depress the clutch again to get the circlip back on. Further back along the length of the bar (a couple of inches), I have drill two holes the right distance apart and put 2" long bolts through and nutted them securely. The two bolt threads are long enough to be placed in the slots of the flywheel, and the bar is long enough to ground out against the floor/tarmac and hold the flywheel whilst the nut is removed. Same in reverse for re-tightening. Very simple, bloody basic but it works and has been used several times. ;) :) :) You just have to make sure the bolt threads do not come into contact with the coils on the stator, but if cut to the right length, this cannot happen.
Compact Toolbox Flywheel Holder
starreem
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 3:02 am
Location: Raleigh, NC USA
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When you re-assemble the clutch, do you have trouble with the springs staying in place, since you are depressing them on a slight angle?

A picture would be nice. Clever homemade tools are impressive.
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