Its happening all again :( Fuse STILL blowing??

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dapper
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I held back for suggesting that you change the fuse to an anti-surge fuse :oops: They have a coil of wire rather than a straight wire filament, and this coil type fuse expands with heat and absorbs the surge rather than blowing like the straight filament type do. Worth a try ;)
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Fireman Ash
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Thanks for that. Was going to spend the weekend continuity testing but maybe I'll try this option first.
Silly question but where would I find one of these fuses as opposed to the normal ceramic/glass type fuse?
Thanks for all the help guys
firekdp
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Ash I suspect that you will have to spend the weekend insulation checking anyway as a standard fuse should do the job with the regulator taking care of voltage spikes. Firstly have a quick check that all wires are connected and then have a look anywhere that a wire may have had its insulation damaged by moving parts such as in the headset (a likely place is the switch on the gear change).
Fireman Ash
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Cheers mate, thats on my list to check thanks.
Good stuff this 'black art' more commonly known as electricity!! Always managed to avoid it until it came to my scoot :shock:
J1MS
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Watching and reading and following the advice given i think you will fix the fault.....if no fault is found, no short circuit, then it might be the rectifier at fault, they are usually very reliable but I have known them burn out and they sometimes blow the fuse....but I would expect it to be a fault else where.....dont forget to check the horn wires sometimes they get caught up on the frame or horncast and short out but only if they are routed wrong.....Hope you sort it mate..... and I still havnt found my notes on wiring these.....
Fireman Ash
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Thanks J1M,
Horns on my list too. Won't get to the garage now until Monday. It's got a new horn which has been ok but will have to strip the front end off to get to it and look at the wiring due to the fibreglass horncast and mudguard being bolted together from the inside :roll: Spanish design hey!! Also got a non Indian rear light switch today which will hopefully help.

I'll let you know after Monday whether my full head of hair has been removed and sold as asian hair extensions to the bas*ards that sell indian tatt to unsuspecting customers under the guise of "Lambretta parts"!! no disrespect to the reputable stuff and dealers of course...but thats another storey I guess!! :P happy days...thanks all :|

Ash
dodobeckam
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disconect lights,indicaters etc and reconect one at a time ash baby.......
Fireman Ash
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Well after a day with my beloved multi-meter it would appear (yes at the moment 'appear') that I may have found the problem. The scoot was imported from Spain and the last one and only owner decided to remove the indicators thus cutting the grey wiring back (power from relay to indicator switch) as far back as the frame leaving little for people like me to ressurect them in the future.

Well when I was testing everything originally (some 3 months ago) to get power to the relay I re-connected with an inline connector which was fine until I had done a few miles and it seems that with a little too much copper wire exposed and under the weight of the wiring/vibration etc, copper strands have been broken both ends resulting in a reading of 1 ohm when measuring resistance and indicating a break. So with that stripped off, re-tested the loom (ok) and with a better connector and wire it seems ok after a short road test. I'm guessing that the resistance will increase will it at higher revs thus leading to continual fuse blowing? :?:

I'm not counting my chickens yet but along with a better fitting Italian rear switch all seems electrically ok. I'll let you know when I've got 100 miles under my belt or until my dear scoot gives me some other future problem to focus on!! stress levels have been resumed to tolerable....for now....... :shock:
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coaster
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I'm not sure if I'm understanding you Ash but a high resistance wouldn't cause your problem but if ther were exposed copper wires then it's possible that they were shorting to earth.
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jonny snatchsniffer
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the higher the resistance the lower the current (amps) and vice versa, also when the motor gets hot there is less resistance
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