60/110 GT186
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Is it a straight fit ? Thinking along the lines of the piston being 3mm shorter that most kit pistons?
- Burnside
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You'll need a GT packing plate and 2 gaskets if using a 110 rod. Link to the manual....
http://www.granturismo.pwp.blueyonder.c ... manual.pdf
http://www.granturismo.pwp.blueyonder.c ... manual.pdf
the piston being shorter makes no difference. if it fits (gives the correct squish) with a 58 107 crank all you need to do with a 60 110 crank is pack the bottom by the difference, eg 4mm (3mm longer rod and 1mm the amount the stroke makes the piston higher)
so you need a 3.5mm packer and 2 gaskets. 3.5+0.5+0.5 = 4.5mm ( the extra .5 is the base gasket used with a standard 58 107 ) That is unless you plan to change the port timings by lowering the barrel slightly but if you do that you either need to make up at the top how ever much you lower the barrel by or get a recess cut in the head to make up the difference.
If you intend to raise the barrel to change the port timings the other way then your probably looking at taking a skim off the top of the barrel to get your squish.
In other words it all depends how you intend to utilise the 60 110 crank
so you need a 3.5mm packer and 2 gaskets. 3.5+0.5+0.5 = 4.5mm ( the extra .5 is the base gasket used with a standard 58 107 ) That is unless you plan to change the port timings by lowering the barrel slightly but if you do that you either need to make up at the top how ever much you lower the barrel by or get a recess cut in the head to make up the difference.
If you intend to raise the barrel to change the port timings the other way then your probably looking at taking a skim off the top of the barrel to get your squish.
In other words it all depends how you intend to utilise the 60 110 crank
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Does the kit come with packer plates, I ask as a poster says "GT" packer plates?
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also worth noting to anyone wanting to fit a 60mm crank, you will need to remove material from your crankcase for the big eye of the conrod to clear. im sure the OP knows this, but thought it worth noting as its not as straightforward as swapping a crank out.
would also be worth looking at edens calulator, as he has mentioned, to see what you want to achieve with the 110 rod relative to the kits port timings. best of luck!
would also be worth looking at edens calulator, as he has mentioned, to see what you want to achieve with the 110 rod relative to the kits port timings. best of luck!
Incorrect adviceolliewtf wrote:also worth noting to anyone wanting to fit a 60mm crank, you will need to remove material from your crankcase for the big eye of the conrod to clear.
Do you mean Tonys ?olliewtf wrote:would also be worth looking at edens calulator
Yanker wrote:Incorrect adviceolliewtf wrote:also worth noting to anyone wanting to fit a 60mm crank, you will need to remove material from your crankcase for the big eye of the conrod to clear.
Do you mean Tonys ?olliewtf wrote:would also be worth looking at edens calulator
no I think he means mine
port timing not gearing
Also Ollie is correct about removing some material depending which crank is used. the ones from scooter centre DO need a trench for their 60/110
Yanker strikes again lol
- Burnside
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I don't believe they come with the kit but they aren't expensive to buy;psychedelicropcircle wrote:Does the kit come with packer plates, I ask as a poster says "GT" packer plates?
http://www.granturismo.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
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i cant see how you can make a 60mm crank that has the same dimensions as a 58mm.
Either way, it was just a piece of info for other reading this topic to take note from, as if youre thinking of fitting a 60mm crank it means complete top end strip and machining, plus the best damn cleaning ever to remove all the swarf.
it is also glaringly obvious when material needs removing as the conrod catches and wont turn, so unless you are really special, i dont think you can not notice the clearance issue.
And yes I meant Eden's port timing calculator, as we are talking about increasing rod length and potentially introducing packers.
so there.
Either way, it was just a piece of info for other reading this topic to take note from, as if youre thinking of fitting a 60mm crank it means complete top end strip and machining, plus the best damn cleaning ever to remove all the swarf.
it is also glaringly obvious when material needs removing as the conrod catches and wont turn, so unless you are really special, i dont think you can not notice the clearance issue.
And yes I meant Eden's port timing calculator, as we are talking about increasing rod length and potentially introducing packers.
so there.
My 60 crank fitted no probs as does my 58/110
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