Scooterotica

If you wanted to why not use these http://www.ekmpowershop12.com/ekmps/sho ... 1284-p.asp saves mucking around wth bits of wire

RICSPEED wrote:That would only be good for 3 of the bolts though wouldn't it

There in lies the problem...hopefully the 2 guys mentioned have come up with a new idea...?

stew wrote:http://www.ekmpowershop12.com/ekmps/sho ... 1284-p.asp

MMMMMM never seen that before..now that is a good idea..

Lam46 wrote:

RICSPEED wrote:That would only be good for 3 of the bolts though wouldn't it

There in lies the problem...hopefully the 2 guys mentioned have come up with a new idea...?

stew wrote:http://www.ekmpowershop12.com/ekmps/sho ... 1284-p.asp

MMMMMM never seen that before..now that is a good idea..

but would the grub screws not damage the stud threads ..?

sean brady scooters wrote:but would the grub screws not damage the stud threads ..?

You could in thoery...torque the stud then fine drill part of the way into the stud then nip up the grub screw...which is the correct method for using them..

Isn't this like using a hammer to crack a nut. Just re-torque and all should be well. I don't see the problem I bet Andy F doesn't use those grub screws either.

Come on gents keep it simple. you lock wire everything for formula 1,

Just use a flat washer a good split spring washer and torque it down, as J1MS said you can torque it after a warm up and a few hundred miles later.

keep it simple.

i must agree that all these attempts at lock wiring/grub screws through nuts etc are just overkill and just maybe a futile attempt to overcome somewhat lacking basic requirements.
the use of vespa studs prevents to some degree the probs..
also quality gaskets (that do not dissolve or compress away )
cyl head gasket surface area is another factor in failures....

i,ve yet to see a production motor cycle as yet resorting to the use of wired or grub screwed head nuts...

sean brady scooters wrote:i must agree that all these attempts at lock wiring/grub screws through nuts etc are just overkill and just maybe a futile attempt to overcome somewhat lacking basic requirements.
the use of vespa studs prevents to some degree the probs..
also quality gaskets (that do not dissolve or compress away )
cyl head gasket surface area is another factor in failures....

i,ve yet to see a production motor cycle as yet resorting to the use of wired or grub screwed head nuts...

but most m/c,s have properly balanced cranks and top ends and the cylinder is in the correct orientation to the crankshaft design unlike the lammy crank which had a 90deg switch plus lots use o rings and recessed heads and 5 or 6 head bolts

Is there some special kind of locking wire or just anything that has reasonable tensile strength and holds its shape??

I don't think it's a matter of lock wire or grub screws, they will stop the head nuts undoing but it's the heating then cooling of the engine, the choice of barrel stud material, and also the compression of gaskets that the re-torque helps eliminate. Locking the studs to the nuts will not eliminate this and the head could still blow once the engine settles in, even though the Cylinder-head nuts can't move...