No spark!!!!
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Scootermonkey
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What puzzles me is, nothing had been touched regarding the engine, so how could the pick up points on the flywheel, or the flywheel itself fail? Strange world of Lambrettas
How hard can it be!
Lambretta, the finest scooter............IN THE WORLD!
Lambretta, the finest scooter............IN THE WORLD!
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coaster
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I agree and it's the point I was making above although I hadn't realised that you have changed the stator. That said, it isn't beyond the realms of possibility that your replacement stator is also faulty, definitely worth checking again, also an idea to apply some heat from a hair drier whilst the meter is attached.Scootermonkey wrote:What puzzles me is, nothing had been touched regarding the engine, so how could the pick up points on the flywheel, or the flywheel itself fail? Strange world of Lambrettas
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HxPaul
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Are the trigger fingers "bridged"in the flywheel.If the flywheel has been taken off and put down with the magnets face down it could have picked something up off the floor.
HxPaul wrote
I disconnected the green wire from the CDI (the green that goes up the loom to the headset ) so that the ignition switch was isolated and I went for a ride.On Saturday I did 42 miles without issue,on Sunday I did about another 30 miles before it started to act up.In total it did it twice before I got home,so obviously nothing's wrong with the igntion switch or the loom from the CDI.
As you have changed everything including the engine, I don't have a clue?
Im afraid you need an exorcist not an auto electrician.
Just to confirm, do you connect the green/red/white from the flywheel direct to the CDI or do you run it through a junction box?
Glad you cured the problem scooter monkey
A magnet exists because the atoms in the material are aligned In a specific orientation, if the atoms are moved out of alignment then the magnetic field weakens.
There are 3 main ways for this to happen, overheating, being left in an opposite magnetic field and getting shocked.
Solenoids fail in this way regularly. They tend to become intermittent before complete failure.
You would be surprised at the low level magnetic fields around your house, any current carrying conductor creates a magnetic field.
Poor pick up alignment and a reduction in magenism of the flywheel is a possible cause, but not something I would expect.
Without specialist test gear the simplest way to find funny faults is to change parts out for known good ones. There is no guarantee that new parts are in full working order.
I disconnected the green wire from the CDI (the green that goes up the loom to the headset ) so that the ignition switch was isolated and I went for a ride.On Saturday I did 42 miles without issue,on Sunday I did about another 30 miles before it started to act up.In total it did it twice before I got home,so obviously nothing's wrong with the igntion switch or the loom from the CDI.
As you have changed everything including the engine, I don't have a clue?
Im afraid you need an exorcist not an auto electrician.
Just to confirm, do you connect the green/red/white from the flywheel direct to the CDI or do you run it through a junction box?
Glad you cured the problem scooter monkey
A magnet exists because the atoms in the material are aligned In a specific orientation, if the atoms are moved out of alignment then the magnetic field weakens.
There are 3 main ways for this to happen, overheating, being left in an opposite magnetic field and getting shocked.
Solenoids fail in this way regularly. They tend to become intermittent before complete failure.
You would be surprised at the low level magnetic fields around your house, any current carrying conductor creates a magnetic field.
Poor pick up alignment and a reduction in magenism of the flywheel is a possible cause, but not something I would expect.
Without specialist test gear the simplest way to find funny faults is to change parts out for known good ones. There is no guarantee that new parts are in full working order.
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HxPaul
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I connect the wires straight from the stator to the CDI.
I put on a new fast flow tap(again) today and went for a ride.About 10 miles into the ride it did it again,I'm at a total loss as to what to do next.
I put on a new fast flow tap(again) today and went for a ride.About 10 miles into the ride it did it again,I'm at a total loss as to what to do next.
Struggling to help here.
suggest the following (sorry if its a bit noddy)
1. It may not be the spark and you may be looking for more than 1 fault.
2. look for common components if the fault persists (Thats why I suggested the kill switch circuit)
Im assuming that you have tried a different, stator, CDI, flywheel. HT lead and sparlk plug.
Were there any common components when you tried the spare engine. Ie fuel tank/petrol pipe/carb/airbox/air filter.
Do you get more/less miles if its cold/run gently/ragged/full of fuel/wet/damp
Are the components that you swap proven on another bike. (ie does your complete spare engine work fine on another bike)
(if it does then its the components its being connected too that are at fault)
Other ideas
Have you tried a new petrol cap, if the breather is partially blocked it will slowly starve the engine of fuel,
do you have something under the seat that will starve either the carb or act as a blockage for air to the fuel cap.
it there something in the fuel tank
Failing all of the above a blood sacrifice might work.
suggest the following (sorry if its a bit noddy)
1. It may not be the spark and you may be looking for more than 1 fault.
2. look for common components if the fault persists (Thats why I suggested the kill switch circuit)
Im assuming that you have tried a different, stator, CDI, flywheel. HT lead and sparlk plug.
Were there any common components when you tried the spare engine. Ie fuel tank/petrol pipe/carb/airbox/air filter.
Do you get more/less miles if its cold/run gently/ragged/full of fuel/wet/damp
Are the components that you swap proven on another bike. (ie does your complete spare engine work fine on another bike)
(if it does then its the components its being connected too that are at fault)
Other ideas
Have you tried a new petrol cap, if the breather is partially blocked it will slowly starve the engine of fuel,
do you have something under the seat that will starve either the carb or act as a blockage for air to the fuel cap.
it there something in the fuel tank
Failing all of the above a blood sacrifice might work.
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HxPaul
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Changed flywheel and timed and strobed it at 17 degrees,as I did with the one I took off when it was fitted to the engine,will go for a ride and see how it goes,but I dont hold out much hope.
Any joy?
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HxPaul
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Just got back in,80 miles done,so far so good.If the weather holds out this week I'll do about another 100 miles,if after that I have no more trouble then I will call it fixed.Either way I'll keep you posted.
Good luck.