I was ignoring you Col, whilst not drawing attention to your dyslexia, but now that you've drawn attention to yourself...coaster wrote:Ignore me, I thought you were talking about the stator
Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO
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Turn On, Tune In, Cop out!
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Yes mate thought that !! Best buy another then , doh!!coaster wrote:Ignore me, I thought you were talking about the stator
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On the link that Corrado posted, there's a very small bridge rectifier (8th item down). Is there no way that you can just put the AC into this and then get the DC output? You guys that have put time in on this great idea, may have already considered this. It was just that I converted my rear frame grill to take LEDs to become a high level brake light and was able to use this rectifier to convert to DC so there was no flicker. Just wanted your views
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm
Compact Toolbox Flywheel Holder
Iv`e just bought all the parts for this plus a chisel speed advance retard unit, as i wont be able to do it all in one hit , i plan to fit the regulator first, question is will it still work with the standard wired (ac stator) ?
then next week end i will remove the stator solder the exra wire on then do the timing bit for the advance[ retard.
any reason why i shouldn`t.
then next week end i will remove the stator solder the exra wire on then do the timing bit for the advance[ retard.
any reason why i shouldn`t.
win or lose have a booze
- coaster
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No, it won't work, the reason being that the DC conversion uses the frame as the negative so the stator AC output cannot also use the earth, hence the need for the additional wire from the stator.YAMLAM wrote:Iv`e just bought all the parts for this plus a chisel speed advance retard unit, as i wont be able to do it all in one hit , i plan to fit the regulator first, question is will it still work with the standard wired (ac stator) ?
then next week end i will remove the stator solder the exra wire on then do the timing bit for the advance[ retard.
any reason why i shouldn`t.
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Correct: this is what i did on my silGP200 for the past 2 years using a scootRS half wave rectifier (much cheapness and easy to fit/wire).coaster wrote:It all depends what you want to to do with the DC, the half wave rectifier approach will do for feeding very low consumption items but you won't get the full benefits as already described.
Battery is now truly fooked after running a tomtom, and rev counter/CHT gauge and charging the phone.
Even with the occasional top up from my optimate it is shagged out.
I'm now going full DC which should mean never having to charge the battery off the scoot and being able to supply all of the above.
- coaster
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I up graded my system by fitting a Wet Country Windings stator for the Euro. Unfortunately the pickup screw came out afer 100 miles and I had to fit my bodged up BGM (2 lighting coils replaced with SIL ones) and didn't think my battery would stand up to the rest of the trip. I was running with the lights on, charging a TomTom, a Garmin 201 and both mine and Mark's iphones. 710 miles , no problem whatsoever
Thanks for the prompt reply`s.
looks like a`ll have to do the lot next weekend.
looks like a`ll have to do the lot next weekend.
win or lose have a booze