New electronic kit anyone?

[Rich_T]

Looks well trick and no doubt it works too.
But I want to see a video of the CNC in action carving out the fan - afterall all's fair in love and competition right ?

I won't waste server time and space with a video, but if you send me an Email I'll attached a video clip of the machining next time I run a batch (probably 10 days away for the next set of fans, stators are going through this week). in the mean time here is a picture of the fan on the machine and the finished item.

This machine is interlocked and runs suds, the nett result of this is an extremely high quality machine finish that require no hand finishing. Opening the door when runnng would result in the machine performing an E stop and throwing messy suds all over the workshop (not a good idea unless you fancy scrapping a perfectly good part and spending the afternoon with a mop and bucket).

[Stokie]

I was being facetious of course.
Looks beautiful. Upload a video to youtube when you next do a batch so we can compare the mechanics to the Viet one ....
what's the idea behind having it anodised - just for looks ?

[Rich_T]

I try to stay off as many sites as I can so I'm not signed up to youtube I'm affraid. No problem to do small video next time round though.

Aluminium is quite reactive, anodising protects the metal from salt and electrolitic actions. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble of CNC machining only for the product to fur up and look dog ugly come the first winter. If you intend to anodise surface finish is VERY important, if a product has dog rough pick up marks from bad machining and/or has to be finished by hand with flap wheels and abrasive paper it will look even worse once it is anodised.

There are more corrosion resistant alloy grades like LM6 (the GT inlet manifolds are made from this material) but they do not machine as nicely or are as strong as a billet 6000 series material. You can anodise without a colour but red tends to be the more corporate approach I'm taking as a standard.

[wlightning]

Hi Rich
Looking at the mag housing this means a hole will have to be cut in mine are you doing that or is Guy
Also if in rain would water get in or have you got a bung sorted.

anyway look forward to getting it fitted pos next week Thursday friday will let you no.

Hope it is as good as your 7 plate clutch we fitted

thanks Carl (carpet)

[Rich_T]

cutting the hole is most economically achieved with a drill, dremel and file. Guy was going to do this.

for road bikes a rubber cover can be made using a piece of inner tube to keep the worst out.

[firekdp]

Out of interest, how are you controlling ignition on/off with the casa switch, or does an additional switch need fitting?

[Rich_T]

Out of interest, how are you controlling ignition on/off with the casa switch, or does an additional switch need fitting?

The details are in the manual but in summary; the normal green ignition wire on the ignition switch is redundant. The 12VDC battery power is connected to the Brown wire on the ignition switch. The returning power to the CDi and auxilary equipment is commoned to the horn wire from the ignition switch.

The power to the horn is common on all switch positions (except the off position). Connecting in this way means that no extra kill switch is required.

High power accessories like spots etc are powered from relays and do not take current through the ignition switch (for obvious reasons). DC battery power runs through a 20 amp fuse, Auxilary power runs through a 16 amp fuse and the CDi runs through a 7.5 amp fuse as the original looms do.

[firekdp]

The power to the horn is common on all switch positions (except the off position). Connecting in this way means that no extra kill switch is required.

Unless the Casa ones have changed, I believe they are based on the 6 pole stator AC ignition switch and the purple wire is only connected in position 2 (for pilot lights).
The only switch that controlled the horn in the manner you describe, I believe, is the earlier 4 pole TV (9 wire) on all later machines the horn power does not go through the switch at all.

[Rich_T]

The switch I set up on was a DC 5 postion version, it was a new switch pretty certain it was Casa, I'll check.

[firekdp]

The switch I set up on was a DC 5 postion version, it was a new switch pretty certain it was Casa, I'll check.

Ah, that is why I was confused as your manual specifies a 4 position, non battery type and I'm pretty sure Casa do not do a DC type.
The DC one you ran with must be a strange type, as on a machine fitted with a 5 position one the horn would have been DC, so the output to it would not be connected to the brown in any position, as that is an AC feed. This is why the TV one had 2 extra wires.

PS. Re your warning about high currents and fires, it's worth mentioning that this applies to all systems using a battery irrespective of stator power.