Shed Find (My Shed)

[rosscla]

Yes, using rattle cans from Lambretta Paints 1K colours. The finish isn't concourse quality but that's probably more down to my preparation / the quality of the parts / lack of skill.

As yet I don't know what the durability will be like but it's certainly freshened up a lot.

I used about half a can on the horncast (comes in 400ml cans) but I rubbed it down and re did it because I wasn't happy with the first finish. I used high build primer as a guide coat, flatted that back with 240 grit, then 400 and 800. I then sprayed a thin coat of colour flatted that with 800 and then a wet coat.

For the foot boards, headset top, door and mudguard I used about 1 whole can. Legshields have taken 2 cans and the arch about half a can.

I'm leaving the headset bottom for now as I can't see a good way to paint it on the bike and can't face stripping it all out when I just got it running.

[rosscla]

The legshields which turned up from eBay looked ok and might have been usable but the colour was too white and would really have stood out against the bits I'd painted already.

I'd already stripped the old legshields off the bike in anticipation of being able to bolt the eBay ones straight on.



The colour wasn't right though so I started to strip them back for painting. The foot boards were difficult. Some bits looked like they'd been made from more than one part or had been welded up, the tops looked ok but underneath isn't pretty. I also discovered that they seemed to have been coated in some odd type of filler or coating that stank and behaved like plasticine when you rubbed it down. It also sometimes reacted with the primer. Probably far eastern.

They painted up ok after hours of prep work.



Next came rubbing down the legshields. These had similar issues to the boards.





The edges are as rough as and look like they've been chewed out of the sheet steel. I'm concentrating on trying to get a passable finish on the bits that can be seen.

[rosscla]

The legshields needed a fair amount of work before being fit for primer and a guide coat shows up a whole new set of issues that needed some treatment at least.



First coat then goes on -





There's a few little flaws and runs so I rubbed them out and let it cure overnight. Then as I put the wet coat on I knocked it of the bench and obviously it landed butter side down...



Plenty of swearing ensued.

[Rs fruitbat]

Have you painted the whole Scooter using cans?I am painting mine with cans,looks ok considering.

I used an eBay company called paints4u , they can mix up any colour as long as you supply a paint code , the key to a good job is in the prep ,it just takes a lot of time to do the prep work ,also heat the panel up slightly with a heat gun or hair drier between coats , don't rush it for the sake of getting it finished as that's when you'll end up with imperfection and runs , been there done that

I'm not jumping on rosscla's thread ,but here's a link to my Vespa that I recently painted using a rattle can

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=34410

[Rs fruitbat]

The legshields needed a fair amount of work before being fit for primer and a guide coat shows up a whole new set of issues that needed some treatment at least.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd5 ... xagwu2.jpg

First coat then goes on -

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd5 ... cu9kmp.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd5 ... 8zl9t8.jpg

There's a few little flaws and runs so I rubbed them out and let it cure overnight. Then as I put the wet coat on I knocked it of the bench and obviously it landed butter side down...

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd5 ... lao5zk.jpg

Plenty of swearing ensued.

Unlucky on knocking the leg shields off you could try tiding up the swaged sides of the leg shield with a skim of filler ,worth the effort seeing as it needs more prep before you can re apply a fresh coat of paint

[rosscla]

I managed to flat the worst of it out and dropped another coat on. This time a big fly got stuck in it

At the moment I'm not too bothered as this body work is temporary till I can get my own stuff done properly.

[rosscla]

To get up to date yesterday I started on the frame.

There's a few rusty spots here and there that need a good rubbing down.



I removed the petrol tap and grommet but couldn't the choke nut with the toolbox in so that had to come out, two broken trunnions later I got all that stripped out which is actually a good thing since I'm going to fit a Vespa battery tray to the rear of the toolbox.



A lot of rubbing down was needed.

I've masked it up using a load of paper packaging that came in a ridiculously large box from SCK with three small parts in.j



Couple of coats and it's looking tidier.

[rosscla]

Today was a little busy with one thing and another and the weather was terrible windy and heavy showers, so didn't achieve much.

I fitted the toolbox door lock ...twice...

Once according to the instructions on the restoration blog with the blind rivets, only to find that once the shell was fitted to the door the barrel of the lock didn't fit through the hole in the door from the outside.

I chipped the rivets back off, reassembled the lock and fitted it to the door. I didn't have a spare set of alloy rivets so resorted to pop rivets. It a Serveta door so originality is out the window already.



Also managed to spend half an hour in the shed refitting some of the furniture to the rear end.



I'm starting to quite like the look of this in white, the contrast is much better than the old charcoal colour.

[HxPaul]

I used pop rivets on my series 3 toolbox door lock and they snapped whilst out riding and I lost the toolbox lock.You may find that ordinary pop rivets aren't strong enough.I now use small diameter bolts and nuts and they have worked well for 4 years.

[warts]

I'm beginning to see why people go down the route of rusterations.

Ross, you have the patience of a saint.