Shed Find (My Shed)

[johnny LIS150]

wow thank you for typing all the Roscia !

I'll copy paste it and print it out on some A4 card to put with all my other faq sheets
thanks

[rosscla]

Moving indoors cos the summer of 2012 was a shocker round here.

I carry on with the engine in the front room.

The clutch goes in but not without a fight. I'm using the standard BGM plates.



I end up with 1 x 1.5 steel and 2 X 1.2 and still couldn't get a 3mm top plate on...settled for a 2.5 and have the correct clearance. This is on an MB deep crown wheel with a standard spider and GP pressure plate.

One job I was advised to do was remove the compressed cork from in between the pressure pads on the cork plates. This is a laborious procedure but gives me something constructive to do in hotel rooms on an evening.



I'm told it helps the oil circulate round the plates.

On the side case I've drilled and tapped the holes for the Li Style ramp and fitted the workings for the kickstart and the clutch arm.



This latter was a total mess around. I had loads of clutch arm parts in parts box but I could not find a combination that worked properly in this casing. Now, I don't know if there's some difference between Italian and Indian casings or Li and GP parts but nothing I tried worked. I ordered a complete new set from Scooter Restorations and they were with me in less than 24 hours, went straight in and worked fine.



That done I fit the side casing and promptly tear the gasket right next to the oil drain plug, if it had been at the top I might have smeared on some silicone or just thick grease and tried it, but in that position it was bound to leak. Could I find another gasket? No, another order goes in and when it arrives I get it buttoned up and the kickstart on.

[rosscla]

Now it's time to finalise the top-end set up. The piston and barrel have, till now, just been sat on.

Darrell had said that he's skimmed 0.75 off the base of the barrel and raised the exhaust port a couple of millimeters to balance the tall transfers. These are also tamed a bit by the 60 stroke. He'd also engraved some instructions on the top face.



We were expecting 1mm out the top which would allow for the fitting of base and head gaskets and some adjustment in the timings if required but even with no gasket there's only 0.7mm out of the top, this I'm putting down to the Indian casing having a high gasket face. Working this out this meant that a 1.7mm head gasket was needed to get a 1mm squish.

I checked the measurements again from the top of the barrel, these came out as -

Exhaust - 32.1
Transfers - 45.9
Inlet - 96.5

Back in the calculators this looks like

Exhaust - 185.6
Transfers - 128
Inlet - 155

This gives a blowdown of approximately 28 degrees, much improved.

I fit the rings, checking the gaps, adding copious hi-temp silicon to the spigot and base area and a slightly more carefully measured amount on the head gasket. Then torque the head down.





Note also in this pic I've fitted studs into the mag housing to hold the cowling in place. Generally it's not a great idea to screw steel in and out of alloy as inevitably it will wear and / or strip. The cowling is on and off a lot and these bolts are vulnerable to vibration, you'll often find them stripped in second hand mag

With everything tightened down I'm using some 2mm solder to check the squish and for once something worked out right



Moving on I fit the exhaust studs and stub.



Up till this point I'd hummed and hawed about carburettors. As I'd said previously I was an old skool Amal kind of guy. I understand Amals, there's not too much you can do with them, there's only one 2t needle for example, however I start to think that I'm building in some inflexibility in the set up by going down this route. I'd been picking a few up on eBay over the winter if they were cheap enough but they were all quite worn or had faults with one thing or another. Some had chambers or power jets blanked, others had worn bodies or slides. In the end I could just about have made one good one out of the lot of them.

In the end I decide to follow the herd and fit a manifold for a PHBH style carb. This I match to the inlet and fit to the barrel.

[rosscla]

With the engine pretty much done, I put the disk brake back together.



This was done with all new shielded bearings and new oil seals. I also fitted an MB metal speedo drive set and a pop in hydraulic slave unit. I also cleaned up the original disk and reused it.



I have my reservations about this hydraulic conversion. As suppied it comes with a straight forward normal banjo bolt and would be impossible to bleed.

I bought a second hand one first but I think it wasn't right the piston was very small and I couldn't believe how tight it was to move.



I then bought another version which was UK made and had a larger piston but still has a simple banjo. I've replaced this with a banjo that includes an bleed nipple and we'll see how this works out in the longer term when I get this back in the bike.

[rosscla]

Another indoor job was to convert the rear lamp to LED. As I'm planning to set this up as a DC conversion with the Wassell type rectifier I figure that this can lower the load and mean there's more juice to run other stuff.

The original lamp holder had lost a lot of it's silvering as it's now 45 years old and basically paint on plastic. Anything will be an inprovement.

I got the light board from eBay and fixed it to to the lamp holder using a couple of self tappers. The wires are fed out through the back of the original bulbholder.

Testing it with a battery it looks like it will work well.



And with the brake light connected



I chose to wire it with the brake light at the bottom as I felt that it stood out better, the reflector part of the original lens seems to partially mask the top element.

[rosscla]

Towards the end of July 2012 a couple of decent days sees me get the engine into the frame.



I've fitted the head cowling as well. I glued some cork pads inside where the original pads would have been hoping this will stop the cowling rattling. I knew I'd been drinking all that wine with a purpose.



I've stuck the new shock on just for ease of movement for now. The bushes are not a good fit on the casing or the frame mount and I'm going to need to get some new ones from somewhere. You'll also notice that the original Ducati style regulator is still fitted on the offside footboard support.

I've now removed the original regulator and fitted a Wassell style regulator in it's place. There's plenty of length on the wires on these to run those back toward the usual junction box area. I've also fitted the gear linkage to the casing.



Augusto retard box and new DC junction box fitted and the spaghetti nightmare begins, especially as I have to run in new wiring for fuel level light, front brake switch, charge light, battery etc....



In the above pic you'll also see I haven't tightened up the rear hub properly yet. There's a couple of reasons for this. Firstly I may need to adjust the cam on the Jockeys brake kit once I have the cable and pedal attached and secondly I've had a bit of trouble with the layshaft threads. I'd bought a new stainless nut for the rear hub but couldn't get it over the first thread, it just would not catch. I put this down to a bad nut and ordered another one from MB. When it turns up it is exactly the same will turn about a 3/4s of a revolution ad will go no further. I try to dress the threads up a little with a thread file as suggested in the bible but succeed in doing nothing more than blunting the file. These threads are HARD.

Eventually I dig the old nut out of the parts bin rusty and a bit beaten looking it rolls all the way in by hand, I can only presume that the nut has worn to the thread. I wasn't prepared to force the stainless ones on, I'll just replace the layshaft next time the gearbox is out and use the old nut meantime.

I've also refitted the front wheel and hub and run in the hydraulic hose.



This is linked up to an old style hydraulic master cylinder. This is a bolt on conversion, one bolt goes through the original lever hole and you have to drill another one and cut the front of the lever support. The carrier then slides instead of the lever. I say 'slides in' but not with out a load of filing and grinding.



At the front I've stripped off the horncast and the mudguard to help with the wiring and cable replacement. Some of the wiring under the horn cover was poor.

[LI150]

Great thread really enjoying reading this

[rosscla]

In a fit of madness I bought a larger petrol tank from eBay.



I'd also acquired some longer stainless straps though not from the same supplier. Anyone who's tried this will know what a pig it can be to get the straps to fit or even to meet with a standard tank. In the restricted spaces created by filling the gaps with tank it can be nigh on impossible. This took me near three hours to get in and the blood was dripping off my elbows by the time I managed to get both trunnions caught and tightened. Now I was using the original rubbers that had been on my old tank and were, shall we say, a little compressed. I dread to think what would have happened had I been trying to use new rubbers. In the end my tactic was to take the rubbers out get the straps started and then get the rubbers back in place and the edges of these things are like razors.

After all that it turns out that with this tank in there's not much room for the carb and cables, the tap screw is in the wrong place but I can rotate it enough to get over that but to top it all off the filler neck is 1.5mm to big to accept the tank cap.







After a couple of days of messing about with it I decide it's a bad job, rip it out and put the original one back.

I tried to get the seller discuss this, but it was about 4 weeks later and all they would say is 'we've sold a few and never had any complaints before'...helpfully they suggested I look on the internet for a filler cap ...

[rosscla]

Subsequent to the tank debacle I also decide to ditch the Spaco 28mm carb in favour of a proper PHBH.



I'm going to use a remote on the original GP hose to fit under the panel, I'm still not entirely sure if I want it to go vertically up into the airbox space or horizontally towards the rear. One interesting thing I noticed, and I don't know if you can see it in this pic but this frame as no lower bracket on the frame for the captive nut that holds the bottom of the airbox. If it was ground off it was before it was painted and that was a long time ago. In the previous set up there was an airbox fitted but it was only bolted in at the top

I found this little alloy bell-mouth which screws onto the 43mm PHBH thread and gives you the same diameter as the SH22 so the hose fits. My thinking here is that the hole in the hose is still bigger than the hole in the front of the carb so there's no reason why the hose shouldn't flow enough air.

[rosscla]

Moving on to mid August 2012 this may not seem much of an achievement but it let's me move on with a few other things.





I've gone with purely functional matt black here as I may get round to a total respray at some point.



This legshield toolbox was an utter pig to fit and I don't really like the look of it. It was bought from a well known dealer in Grimsby and assured it'd 'bolt straight on' ....dremel , hacksaw, pop riveter, tin snips half a roll of insulating tape and a couple of cut fingers and it's on. With the slightly shady fit it commits me to putting the battery in the normal tool box which mean I can get on with the rest of the wiring. Front brake light switch wiring has been done and rear lamp refitted.

Rear brake cable and throttle are also done and all the others run in. The nylon lined throttle is so light I thought I'd forgot to connect it to the slide till I heard it snick shut.

With a lot of the wiring done I stick a battery into the circuit and we have lights. I've also replaced the horn with a DC one.



I now find I have some intermittent issues with my GRABOR ignition switch and I don't make it any better by trying to use what I thought was the 'spare' key but actually on subsequent inspection turns out to be the totally wrong key altogether