Scooterotica

I want to fit my ts1 engine (110 rod) into a winter model, using the original cowlings. Problem is, the original 150 barrel is shorter anyway and I'm guessing the cowling is also shorter to suit? So the spacer(s) would need to be 3mm (110 rod) plus whatever the difference it is between the barrel l...

lovely to see them still in this condition.

Look like LTH mounts to me

As ever, great attention to detail Mike. You've no damper top lugs welded on for your bgm dampers, are you using clamp on brackets instead?
Don't suppose you could pm me the contact details of the guy who turned the rim into a silk purse?

engine oil and 2T oil both decent quality, no probs so far.

As for spills, cat litter works Ok but after seeing this trackside noted that they use dry cement, so at about a fiver a bag it does the job well too.

Same goes for carb parts / jets / slides / atomisers etc, try not to use secondhand parts as they're often worn.

^^^ agree with Mr Martin, the leccys on a lammy are very basic but often misunderstood and messed / butchered bout with. Much simpler and cheaper in the long run to fit known reputable reliable items. I think that at the present it doesn't get much better than a BGM stator, welded boss & lighten...

voted

.... and do 2 mods to the head to improve cooling further 1 being cutting out between fins Both sides or just the fan side Darrell? I have an idea for doing it with minimal use of the dremel 8-) I'd do both Col, the reasons for doing the near side hold true for the other surely, and would help pass...

Darrell Taylor wrote:
sean brady scooters wrote:love the suggestion about drimmeling out the fins on the near side as it can only help matters cooling wise and air flow around the head overall .

it works very well

Don't suppose you've any before and after dynos to show what difference this makes have you Darrell?

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