Metallic paint

Anything related to paint & bodywork issues on scooters....
Jonn
registered user
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:31 pm
Contact:

The brushing didn't work,I sprayed on some primera fter flattening off and the repair came right through.So I sprayed red primer over the repair and it got it in one good coat.Subsequent black primer was also ok.So fingers crossed it'll be ok.
Jonn
registered user
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:31 pm
Contact:

Well spoke too soon primer was ok but put top coat on and same thing,you can see the ring. :evil:
sydduckett
registered user
Posts: 1900
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:21 am
Contact:

I think you probably have issues with drying times between primer coats which may or may not have been due to filler not having gone off as well? I have done the same thing with filler primer out of a can to find that even after a week it hadn't gone off.
I'm not sure if it being fibreglass has anything to do with it as I have never used it. sounds as though you have quite a few coats on there by now you, may have reached the stage where you need to take the whole lot right down....
It's so far taken me 3 weeks to get 3 colours on a set of legsheilds working at weekends. Mask up, one colour, de mask and clear. Then the following sat the clear has had 7 days to cure. I can then go at it with 2000 and repeat the process. I have tried knocking back the clear 48 hours later with mixed results, issues with tape lifting the paint through the clear so on. it must be great if you have access to a booth/oven but I'm guessing like me you don't....

Good luck let us know how you get on
Revit
registered user
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:24 pm
Main scooter: sx200
Contact:

No disrespect, but you are worrying over nothing here, just get that paint on, no point in startin over. You apply plenty of clear on effect colours like pearls, candy's, metallics etc, so as to give you some room to flat out any defects. Wait for it to fully cure, up to a month if using 1K paint grenades, but a week is good enough for 2K. Once it's fully cured, just carefully flat any area that has rings or nibs etc with 2500 grit wet/dry paper until the filler rings have gone, then compound. Just requires a little patience, if you flat the rings out before the paint is fully cured, they will just show up again.

The way to avoid rings around filled areas is to apply a good coat or two of hi-build primer all over your panels & flat it to perfection before you get into the colour coats, saves a bunch of hassle, it's all in the prep. Good luck, I'm sure it will turn out fine.
Jonn
registered user
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:31 pm
Contact:

Could it be a bad pot of filler( p38)? The whole of the repair shows through.Never had this before,even when used more hardener than needed,some really old filler was used too and was ok.
GBCS
registered user
Posts: 194
Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:46 pm
Main scooter: Lambretta GP RB250
Location: Hull
Contact:

From bitter experience, I would say at this stage, take the paint off, grind out the filler, and start again.

You get to a stage where you are just chasing your tail, and nothing seems to work. Start again, and do it right, it will be the quickest option, and give the best results.
User avatar
coaster
registered user
Posts: 3125
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:35 pm
Location: London and Norfolk
Contact:

Most likely the filler hasn't gone off fully before you primed it. The thinners from subsequent coats are softening it. It would be an idea to sand it down and get some heat on the filler to get it to set fully,
Revit
registered user
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:24 pm
Main scooter: sx200
Contact:

+1 on that, thinners will not react with/soften a fully cured 2-pack filler, certainly looks like a simple case of duff filler or badly mixed. Also, If you're not working in a heated garage/shed etc, humidity & low temp will have an adverse effect & slow the cure rate substantially. What can be fully cured after 30 mins in summer, can take hours in winter. Like others have said, apply some heat, keep it warm for a good 30 mins before sanding.

Just read the thread properly & you say you're filling/painting fiberglass ? Glass resin can play all sorts of tricks, have you applied a barrier coat as coaster suggested, before filling ? A polyester based filler primer will take care of it. You can get one in a can made by U-Pol, it works very well on spot repairs, just don't touch it with bare hands, poly don't take kindly to finger dabs, the following colour coats will react/fish-eye ;)
Jonn
registered user
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:31 pm
Contact:

I sprayed the legshields without any problem,and with the topcoat ,a small imperfection stuck out a mile.Theyre lightweight vega legshields so not perfect. i can live with that as theyre going on my sprinter.Not a problem I thought as simple patch repair (or so i thought). Have sanded it all down and applied primer filler. Will lightly rub down tomorrow to see how its gone.Used small amount of filler with over an hour in boiler room,so if its bad must be duff filler (P38).
Jonn
registered user
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:31 pm
Contact:

Whats the best polishing compound ? Got the paint sorted,rubbed down lacquer,tried regular G3 farecla ,and it was terrible with bad scratches,and with proper dampened cloth.
Post Reply Previous topicNext topic
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests